Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before 25th June, 2017 and receive a Laguiole cheese knife set!

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Wills Domain
Modern Australian
Wills Domain
-33.996736,115.054668

Cutler & Co alumnus Seth James is clearly at home in the south-west. Gone are those sparse, pointillist arrangements of the past, replaced by elegant, unforced compositions with more than a smattering of samphire, dune spinach and other wild coastal plants. His cooking remains as imaginative and intricate as ever. A square of watermelon crowned with saltbush and tiny raw ebi prawns is a telling preamble, as is a raw wallaby cracker. Rounds of tender turnip conceal just-poached prawns and a meaty tranche of barramundi, with candied almond providing an unusual but effective contrast. An intense dashi enhanced with smoked pork cheek and slivers of abalone cloaked in milk skin puts a fancy spin on surf and turf. Chatty floor staff keep the afternoon social, and glasses topped with snappy estate wines. Vineyard panoramas add a touch of special to any occasion, while a dainty fig and salted-caramel tartlet delivers the fitting final flourish.


You might also like:

Albert Street Food & Wine

Philippa Sibley may have left the building, but Albert St F...

Aravina Estate

The family-friendly nature of Aravina explains the terracot...

At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Price:
  • E $17-$23

    M $30-$39

    D $16

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Seth James

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Aløft

Hobart, TAS
There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-...

Brae

Birregurra, VIC
Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but pain...

Attica

Melbourne, VIC
One of Ben Shewry's great strengths is his ability to transform the potentially hokey int...

Bar Lourinha

Melbourne, VIC
Turning 10 has added spring to Bar Lourinha's step. Not that this perennially crowded fav...

Da Noi

Melbourne, VIC
First-timers should know a couple of things about Da Noi. First, there's no menu. Second,...

1889 Enoteca

Brisbane, QLD
There's no better place in Brisbane to enjoy regional classics and seek out exciting, low...

Aubergine

Griffith, ACT
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock st...

10 William Street

Sydney, NSW
What a difference a year makes. After a variety of guest-chef talent passed through it, t...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×