Lunch daily noon-3pm
Cutler & Co alumnus Seth James is clearly at home in the south-west. Gone are those sparse, pointillist arrangements of the past, replaced by elegant, unforced compositions with more than a smattering of samphire, dune spinach and other wild coastal plants. His cooking remains as imaginative and intricate as ever. A square of watermelon crowned with saltbush and tiny raw ebi prawns is a telling preamble, as is a raw wallaby cracker. Rounds of tender turnip conceal just-poached prawns and a meaty tranche of barramundi, with candied almond providing an unusual but effective contrast. An intense dashi enhanced with smoked pork cheek and slivers of abalone cloaked in milk skin puts a fancy spin on surf and turf. Chatty floor staff keep the afternoon social, and glasses topped with snappy estate wines. Vineyard panoramas add a touch of special to any occasion, while a dainty fig and salted-caramel tartlet delivers the fitting final flourish.