The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Curtis Stone's strawberry, elderflower and brioche summer puddings

"Think of this dessert as a deconstructed version of a summer pudding, with thinly sliced strawberries macerated in elderflower liqueur and layered between slices of brioche," says Stone. "A dollop of whipped cream on top is a cooling counterpoint to the floral flavours."

Fig recipes

Figs. We can't get enough of them. Here are a few sweet and savoury ways to add them to your summer spread.

Most popular recipes summer 2017

Counting down from 20, here are this summer's most-loved recipes.

Australia's best rieslings

We’re spoilt for variety – and value – in Australia when it comes to good riesling. Max Allen picks the top 20 from a fine crop.

Chorizo hotdogs with chimichurri and smoky red relish

A hotdog is all about the condiments. Here, choose between a smoky red capsicum relish or the bright flavours of chimichurri, or go for a bit of both.

Top Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2017

A lot has changed since we first published our pick of the best chefs to follow on Instagram (way back in the dark ages of 2013). Here’s who we’re double-tapping on the photo-sharing app right now.

Christine Manfield recipes

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Mascarpone

Bistro Moderne

Watch our exclusive video interview with Warren Turnbull.

He doesn’t own a striped T-shirt, and admits to having never bicycled with a baguette tucked under his arm. He doesn’t speak French, is not known to be rude and, perhaps most shockingly, this proponent of French style was born not in Normandy or Nice, but Nouvelle-Zélande. It’s true: what Warren Turnbull knows about French culture has been absorbed primarily through that great bastion of French cuisine, the restaurant kitchens of London. While his menu at Restaurant Assiette in Sydney’s Surry Hills makes reference to onion bhajis and avocado ‘sushi’, the wealth of purées, confits and sauces matelote to hollandaise make the idiom he’s working in very clear. “To be honest, I don’t really know what to call the food I do at Assiette,” says the 35-year-old chef, “but the technique underneath it all is most definitely French.”

Moving to London in 1994 to work at Kensington Place, Quaglino’s and Marco Pierre White’s Criterion (“he came in on Thursdays”) was something of an eye-opener for the boy who had thought, coming from work in Auckland’s best restaurants, that he knew a thing or two about good cooking. But it was working in the kitchen of the now-defunct Sydney fine-diner Banc, with chefs Matt Kemp and Justin North (now two of the country’s most emphatic Franglais specialists, having carved out their niches at Restaurant Balzac and Bécasse, respectively), that really gave him a sense of what he wanted to do.

While the likes of Paris chefs Pierre Gagnaire and Guy Savoy are more of an inspiration for his work at Assiette than blackboard-and-beefsteak bistros, the lunch Turnbull has put together here is as much about what he enjoys eating as cooking. “I really love Onde at the moment,” he says, speaking of the Sydney bistro landmark. “I love to eat steak frites, beetroot salad, the salt-cod brandade on potato bread, things like that. When we first started Assiette, our food was a lot more like this, but we’re always working to keep up with everyone else. I wouldn’t say our food is experimental now, because that’s not quite right, but it’s definitely freer. We’re having a lot more fun with the way we plate stuff, too.”

With Assiette reaching the three-year mark, Turnbull and co are considering a new site for the restaurant. “But if we moved, it would be a Balzac-style upgrade rather than a Bécasse-sized one – I don’t want to do anything that big, and definitely not in the city.” For now, it’s pie-in-the-sky, and Turnbull comes back to earth with some practical advice for his own recipes. “Just get in there, have a go and enjoy it. Make sure you do it with friends so you can sit around, get sloshed and be merry.”

Restaurant Assiette, 48 Albion St, Surry Hills, NSW, (02) 9212 7979.

WORDS PAT NOURSE PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAM MEPPEM

This article appeared in the July 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.
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