The 50th Anniversary Issue

Our 50th birthday issue is on sale now. We're celebrating five decades of great food and travel with our biggest issue yet.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before 27th November, 2016 and receive a Villeroy & Boch platter!

Gourmet on your iPad

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad.

Cruise control: Captain Kent of the Emerald Princess

We caught up with Princess Cruises’ Captain William Kent to talk life on deck, sailing the Red Sea and how to spend 24 hours in Venice.

Midnight in Melbourne style

After-dark glamour calls for monochrome elegance with accents of red and the glimmer of bling. Martinis await.

Recipes by David Thompson

Thai food maestro David Thompson returns to the Sydney restaurant scene with the opening of Long Chim, a standard-bearer for Thailand’s robust street food. Fiery som dtum is just the beginning.

Reader dinner: Quay, Sydney

Join us at Quay for a specially designed dinner by Peter Gilmore to celebrate the launch of the new Gourmet Traveller cookbook.

GT's party hamper

We’ve partnered again with our friends at Snowgoose to bring you the ultimate party hamper. With each item selected by the Gourmet Traveller team, it’s all killer and no filler.

Aerin Lauder’s Morocco

Meet Aerin Lauder; creative director, lifestyle mogul, mother and global traveller. Here she shares her musings on Morocco, the exotic catalyst for her latest collection.

A hotel dedicated to gin is opening in London

A modern-day gin palace, The Distillery, is set to open in the middle of London’s Portobello Market this year.

Dan Hong's salt and pepper calamari with lime aioli

The executive chef shares his salt and pepper squid recipe, including his secret for a crisp, light batter.

Maitres d' of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Christine Manfield has something of a fondness for the road less travelled. Whether it’s the flavours in her food, the way it looks on the plate or, indeed, the way it’s structured on the menu, she’s willing – driven, almost – to step away from the familiar in search of new ways to do things. And so it is with the service at Universal. Though the restaurant is barely a year old, the experience on the floor is more akin to something you’d hope to see from a seasoned crew of many years’ establishment – and it works, in part, thanks to the unusual teaming of partners Liz Carey and Paul Guiney. 

“We have equal billing – restaurant manager and sommelier – but it’s a joint role shared between the two of us” says Guiney. “We run a slightly different shop to most at Universal, it’s not the classic floor hierarchy with the manager, then the assistants, with the sommelier doing a separate role, and the general staff rounding out the working pyramid.”

Carey’s parents are publicans, so she grew up in hospitality, peeling prawns and doing the books on her school holidays. Wine work at the Brisbane Polo Club led to a leap to Melbourne’s Georges, Middle Brighton’s Baths and Magic City before she and Guiney left for a stint in London; she with Manfield at Covent Garden’s East@West and as sommelier at Roka, and Guiney at David Thompson’s Nahm.

Melbourne-born Guiney got his first serious restaurant job working for Paul Wilson at Radii, at the Park Hyatt, before doing spells at MoMo and Becco. “It was while working for Peter and Tony Giannakis at The Graham that I learnt the craft,” he says. “Their catchphrase was, ‘This dining room is your house, and your customers are friends you’re welcoming into your home’. You look after them, you cook for them, you care for them, you bring them what they want because it’s hospitality, not just fetch and carry.”

“We’ve both got experience in both sides,” says Carey, of the sommelier/manager divide, “and from Chris’s perspective it was never a case of, ‘You’re this and you’re that’. In a smaller restaurant, you can’t have that standard hierarchy. With guys with us like Stuart Blackwell and Graeme Foster, they’ve all got experience, they’ve all got knowledge – even our youngest member of the floor, Banjo Harris-Plane, is only in his early 20s but he’s worked with Chris at East@West. This is what they do, this is their industry, they’re professional waiters. They’ve all come to this job with a strong drive for perfection. They care about what they do, and I think that comes across on the floor.”

Universal, Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer St, Darlinghurst, NSW, (02) 9331 0709,


This article appeared in the September 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.


Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Hot Plates: Zaab Street Food, Canberra
Pinbone is opening a new Sydney restaurant
Melbourne’s Rosa’s Kitchen has closed
Hot Plates: Pickett’s Deli & Rotisserie, Melbourne
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards are coming to Melbourne and we know where and when
Missy French has closed
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
things to do this autumn

Whether it's foraging for wild mushrooms in a picturesque Victorian forest or watching a film by moonlight in Darwin, we've got you covered with 20 exciting autumn experiences from around Australia.

Read More
Gourmet TV

Check out our YouTube channel for our latest cover recipes, chef cooking demos, interviews and more.

Watch Now

You might also like...

Albert Street Food & Wine

Philippa Sibley may have left the building, but Albert St F...

Ananas Bar & Brasserie

With a soundtrack laden with dance beats and a dark, moody ...


The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, bu...


After more than a decade as a serious fine diner focused on...

Annie Smithers' Bistrot

Annie Smithers may have decamped for Du Fermier, but the bi...

Aquitaine Brasserie

The name is a nod to France's south-west gastronomic heartl...

Balfour Kitchen

A Queenslander-style verandah overlooking a courtyard sprin...


Pronounce it "bah-la" for Piedmont-born artist and composer...


The mixing of business and pleasure comes second nature to ...

Byron Beach Cafe

To describe a venue as a "celebration restaurant" - the sor...

Carlton Wine Room

The relaxed ambience and witty, irreverent service may say ...


A land of smoke and mirrors, Celsius is an urbane, nightclu...


Mark Newman's cassia beef cheek is the type of dish that ce...

Da Mario

There's something welcoming and homely about this Italian e...

Da Noi

While many chefs bang on about provenance, few can top Piet...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.