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Mango recipes

Nothing says summer like mangoes. Go beyond the criss-cross cuts - bake a mango-filled meringue loaf with lime mascarpone, start off the day with a sweet coconut quinoa pudding with sticky mango, or toss it through a spicy warm weather Thai salad.

Garlic recipes

This pungent yet essential little bulb sets the foundation for countless dishes across the globe. Slowly roast it alongside spatchcock or whole snapper, or grind it down to thick paste for a rich alioli. When it comes to garlic, the possibilities truly are endless.

Shark Bay Wild Scampi Caviar

Bright blue scampi roe is popping up on menus across Australia. Here's why it's so special.

Taming the Wilderness

Heading to Canada’s far-flung places means a whole lot of adventure with life’s luxuries on the side.

Chilled recipes for summer

When the mercury is rising, step away from the oven. These recipes are either raw, chilled or frozen and will cool you down in a snap.

Dark chocolate delice, salted-caramel ganache and chocolate sorbet

"The delice from Source Dining is a winner. May I have the recipe?" Rebecca Ward, Fitzroy, Vic REQUEST A RECIPE To request a recipe, email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au or send us a message via Facebook. Please include the restaurant's name and address, as well as your name and address. Please note that because of the volume of requests we receive, we can only publish a selection in the magazine.

Koh Loy Sriracha Sauce, David Thompson's favourite hot sauce

When the master of Thai food pinpoints anything as his favourite, we sit up and listen.

Cooking breakfast like a chef

Direct from our Fare Exchange column and recipe vault, we've picked the best breakfast recipes from chefs cooking around Australia. From croque-monsieur to Paris Brest, you won't find poached eggs on toast here. All of the dishes are the perfect accompaniment to your morning coffee.

Maitres d' of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Christine Manfield has something of a fondness for the road less travelled. Whether it’s the flavours in her food, the way it looks on the plate or, indeed, the way it’s structured on the menu, she’s willing – driven, almost – to step away from the familiar in search of new ways to do things. And so it is with the service at Universal. Though the restaurant is barely a year old, the experience on the floor is more akin to something you’d hope to see from a seasoned crew of many years’ establishment – and it works, in part, thanks to the unusual teaming of partners Liz Carey and Paul Guiney. 

“We have equal billing – restaurant manager and sommelier – but it’s a joint role shared between the two of us” says Guiney. “We run a slightly different shop to most at Universal, it’s not the classic floor hierarchy with the manager, then the assistants, with the sommelier doing a separate role, and the general staff rounding out the working pyramid.”

Carey’s parents are publicans, so she grew up in hospitality, peeling prawns and doing the books on her school holidays. Wine work at the Brisbane Polo Club led to a leap to Melbourne’s Georges, Middle Brighton’s Baths and Magic City before she and Guiney left for a stint in London; she with Manfield at Covent Garden’s East@West and as sommelier at Roka, and Guiney at David Thompson’s Nahm.

Melbourne-born Guiney got his first serious restaurant job working for Paul Wilson at Radii, at the Park Hyatt, before doing spells at MoMo and Becco. “It was while working for Peter and Tony Giannakis at The Graham that I learnt the craft,” he says. “Their catchphrase was, ‘This dining room is your house, and your customers are friends you’re welcoming into your home’. You look after them, you cook for them, you care for them, you bring them what they want because it’s hospitality, not just fetch and carry.”

“We’ve both got experience in both sides,” says Carey, of the sommelier/manager divide, “and from Chris’s perspective it was never a case of, ‘You’re this and you’re that’. In a smaller restaurant, you can’t have that standard hierarchy. With guys with us like Stuart Blackwell and Graeme Foster, they’ve all got experience, they’ve all got knowledge – even our youngest member of the floor, Banjo Harris-Plane, is only in his early 20s but he’s worked with Chris at East@West. This is what they do, this is their industry, they’re professional waiters. They’ve all come to this job with a strong drive for perfection. They care about what they do, and I think that comes across on the floor.”

Universal, Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer St, Darlinghurst, NSW, (02) 9331 0709, universalrestaurant.com

WORDS PAT NOURSE PHOTOGRAPHY JUSTIN ALEXANDER

This article appeared in the September 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

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