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Flour and Stone Recipes

Baker extraordinaire Nadine Ingram of Sydney's Flour and Stone cooks up a sweet storm for Easter, including the much loved bakery's greatest hit.

Savoury tarts

Will your next baking project be a flaky puff pastry with pumpkin, goat's curd and thyme, or a classic bacon and Stilton tart? As autumn settles in, we're ticking these off one by one.

New cruises 2017

Cue the Champagne.

Fast autumn dinners

Autumn weather signals the arrival of soups, broths, roasts and more hearty meals.

1980s recipes

Australia saw some bold moves in the ’80s, and we’re not just talking hairstyles. Greater cultural references started peppering the menus of our restaurants, and home-grown ingredients won a new appreciation. The dining scene was coming of age and a new band of pioneers led the charge.

Roasted cauliflower salad with yoghurt dressing and almonds

The cauliflower is roasted until it starts to caramelise, which adds extra depth of flavour to this winning salad. Serve it warm or at room temperature.

Melbournes finest meet Worlds Best

Leading chefs descend on Melbourne in April for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. We asked local hospitality folk who they’d abduct for the day and where they’d take them to show off their city. There may be coffee, there may be culture, but in the end it’s cocktails.

Roti canai

Here, we've made the dough in a food processor, but it's really quick and simple to do by hand as well. If the dough seems a little too wet just add a little more flour.

Maitres d' of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Christine Manfield has something of a fondness for the road less travelled. Whether it’s the flavours in her food, the way it looks on the plate or, indeed, the way it’s structured on the menu, she’s willing – driven, almost – to step away from the familiar in search of new ways to do things. And so it is with the service at Universal. Though the restaurant is barely a year old, the experience on the floor is more akin to something you’d hope to see from a seasoned crew of many years’ establishment – and it works, in part, thanks to the unusual teaming of partners Liz Carey and Paul Guiney. 

“We have equal billing – restaurant manager and sommelier – but it’s a joint role shared between the two of us” says Guiney. “We run a slightly different shop to most at Universal, it’s not the classic floor hierarchy with the manager, then the assistants, with the sommelier doing a separate role, and the general staff rounding out the working pyramid.”

Carey’s parents are publicans, so she grew up in hospitality, peeling prawns and doing the books on her school holidays. Wine work at the Brisbane Polo Club led to a leap to Melbourne’s Georges, Middle Brighton’s Baths and Magic City before she and Guiney left for a stint in London; she with Manfield at Covent Garden’s East@West and as sommelier at Roka, and Guiney at David Thompson’s Nahm.

Melbourne-born Guiney got his first serious restaurant job working for Paul Wilson at Radii, at the Park Hyatt, before doing spells at MoMo and Becco. “It was while working for Peter and Tony Giannakis at The Graham that I learnt the craft,” he says. “Their catchphrase was, ‘This dining room is your house, and your customers are friends you’re welcoming into your home’. You look after them, you cook for them, you care for them, you bring them what they want because it’s hospitality, not just fetch and carry.”

“We’ve both got experience in both sides,” says Carey, of the sommelier/manager divide, “and from Chris’s perspective it was never a case of, ‘You’re this and you’re that’. In a smaller restaurant, you can’t have that standard hierarchy. With guys with us like Stuart Blackwell and Graeme Foster, they’ve all got experience, they’ve all got knowledge – even our youngest member of the floor, Banjo Harris-Plane, is only in his early 20s but he’s worked with Chris at East@West. This is what they do, this is their industry, they’re professional waiters. They’ve all come to this job with a strong drive for perfection. They care about what they do, and I think that comes across on the floor.”

Universal, Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer St, Darlinghurst, NSW, (02) 9331 0709, universalrestaurant.com

WORDS PAT NOURSE PHOTOGRAPHY JUSTIN ALEXANDER

This article appeared in the September 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

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