The summer issue

Our summer-packed January issue is out now - featuring our guide to summer rieslings, strawberries and seafood recipes, as well as a look at the best of Bali.

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Recipes with peaches

Whether caramelised in a tarte Tartin, paired with slow-roasted pork on top of pizza or tossed through salads, this sweet stone fruit is an excellent addition to summer cooking.

Black Star Pastry to open in Carlton, Melbourne

Instagram’s most famous cake, plus a few other sweet hits, is heading south.

Knives and Ink chef tattoos

What is it about chefs and tattoos? A new book asks the inked to answer for themselves.

Ben Shewry's favourtie souvlaki restaurant in Melbourne Kalimera Souvlaki Art

Attica’s chef isn’t happiest when eating soils or smears on his days off, it’s souvlaki. We follow him to his favourite spot.

AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

Seabourn Encore luxury cruise ship

Australia is about to get its first glimpse of Seabourn Encore, a glamorous new addition to the Seabourn fleet.

Berry recipes

Whether it's raspberries paired with chocolate in a layer cake, or blueberries with lemon in a tart; berries are a welcome addition to any dessert. Here are delicious recipes with berries.

Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Maitres d' of the Year 2009: Liz Carey & Paul Guiney, Universal, Sydney

Christine Manfield has something of a fondness for the road less travelled. Whether it’s the flavours in her food, the way it looks on the plate or, indeed, the way it’s structured on the menu, she’s willing – driven, almost – to step away from the familiar in search of new ways to do things. And so it is with the service at Universal. Though the restaurant is barely a year old, the experience on the floor is more akin to something you’d hope to see from a seasoned crew of many years’ establishment – and it works, in part, thanks to the unusual teaming of partners Liz Carey and Paul Guiney. 

“We have equal billing – restaurant manager and sommelier – but it’s a joint role shared between the two of us” says Guiney. “We run a slightly different shop to most at Universal, it’s not the classic floor hierarchy with the manager, then the assistants, with the sommelier doing a separate role, and the general staff rounding out the working pyramid.”

Carey’s parents are publicans, so she grew up in hospitality, peeling prawns and doing the books on her school holidays. Wine work at the Brisbane Polo Club led to a leap to Melbourne’s Georges, Middle Brighton’s Baths and Magic City before she and Guiney left for a stint in London; she with Manfield at Covent Garden’s East@West and as sommelier at Roka, and Guiney at David Thompson’s Nahm.

Melbourne-born Guiney got his first serious restaurant job working for Paul Wilson at Radii, at the Park Hyatt, before doing spells at MoMo and Becco. “It was while working for Peter and Tony Giannakis at The Graham that I learnt the craft,” he says. “Their catchphrase was, ‘This dining room is your house, and your customers are friends you’re welcoming into your home’. You look after them, you cook for them, you care for them, you bring them what they want because it’s hospitality, not just fetch and carry.”

“We’ve both got experience in both sides,” says Carey, of the sommelier/manager divide, “and from Chris’s perspective it was never a case of, ‘You’re this and you’re that’. In a smaller restaurant, you can’t have that standard hierarchy. With guys with us like Stuart Blackwell and Graeme Foster, they’ve all got experience, they’ve all got knowledge – even our youngest member of the floor, Banjo Harris-Plane, is only in his early 20s but he’s worked with Chris at East@West. This is what they do, this is their industry, they’re professional waiters. They’ve all come to this job with a strong drive for perfection. They care about what they do, and I think that comes across on the floor.”

Universal, Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer St, Darlinghurst, NSW, (02) 9331 0709, universalrestaurant.com

WORDS PAT NOURSE PHOTOGRAPHY JUSTIN ALEXANDER

This article appeared in the September 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

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