The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller and receive a free Gourmet Menus book - offer ends 26 February 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Bon Bistro Vietnamese Deli, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Bon Bistro Vietnamese Deli, Sydney.

Sydney has lots of things to offer on the Vietnamese food front, no question, but vast variety isn't one of them. Compared to the diversity of the city's Italian offerings, say, or its Thai food, we're getting only a small part of the picture. That means any menu that strays from the usual suspects is automatically of interest - and that goes double outside the Canley Vale/Cabramatta/Bankstown axis of awesome.

Which brings us to Bon Bistro Vietnamese Deli, a very new player on Broadway. I'm not sure what they're getting at with the deli part, but it's got a bit of a bistro vibe, it's Vietnamese, and it's good.

Timber shutters, distressed timber tables and cushioned banquettes under birdcage light fittings and a ceiling fan produce a somewhat distant intimation of the Indochine vibe. The napkins are paper, but they're not dispensed from a tissue box, and the dimmer switch is dialled to the mood lighting end of the spectrum rather than the convenience-store theft-minimisation glare more commonly favoured by entry-level places this side of town.

There's promise in the kitchen. The chefs make the hu tieu with pork ribs, give the pork in the vermicelli salad a good grilling, and send out the pork chops and broken rice with the classic complement of a pork "custard".

Then there's the stuff you don't see everywhere: sautéed corn with dried prawns, say, or the southern-style rounds of steamed baguette with minced beef and fish sauce. The pucks of sticky rice known as xoi man are a bit too large for their cargo of wafers of lap cheong sausage, spring onion, dried prawn and pork floss to have serious impact, but the flavours are true.

There's also banh mi in a soup-and-sandwich combo with the soup of the day - pumpkin, perhaps, or egg and tofu. And the Vietnamese coffee - served with condensed milk - is made with coffee from Vietnam.

Bon Bistro might not be as shiny as, say, So 9 (let alone Red Lantern on Riley), but it's plenty likeable nonetheless. C'est bon.

Bon Bistro Vietnamese Deli, 155 Broadway, Ultimo, NSW, (02) 8541 8511.

Got a hot tip for our Hot Plates team? Let us know on Facebook or tag your Instagram photos with #GThotplates.


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017
What’s happening in South Yarra?
15.02.2017
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival’s chef collaborations
14.02.2017
Hot Plates: Long Chim, Melbourne
14.02.2017
Eleven Bridge’s bar menu returns
13.02.2017
Hot Plates: Vaquero Dining, Albion
09.02.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Hot Plate: Face2Face Noodles, Sydney

Chinatown's new spicy Chongqing-styled noodle bar is complet...

Hot Plates: Higher Ground, Melbourne

The line between cafe and restaurant is blurred at the CBD’s...

Hot Plates: 13 February 2015

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

L'Americano, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Estelle Bistro, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bang Street Food, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Minamishima, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Lilo Tang, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Mayflower Restaurant and Bar, Adelaide

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

The Vertue of the Coffee Drink, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Spirit House, Yandina, Qld

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bistro Nguyen's, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

University of Melbourne Farmers' Market

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Clayton Wells at LuMi

The pair join forces for Sunday lunches at LuMi.

Farmhouse Restaurant, Pialligo Estate, ACT

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×