London Fields, Brisbane

Clams, parsley, 'nduja, crusty bread

Clams, parsley, 'nduja, crusty bread

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: London Fields, Brisbane.

There were fence-sitters aplenty when London Fields rolled out at the end of July. But like the personality of the gentrifying suburb it inhabits, that's changing fast. The kitchen, under chef Con Tsangaris (late of Gerard's Bistro), has found its groove, and the quality of the dishes now equals the laid-back glam of the fit-out. Light-filled interiors, gently distressed walls, a neutral palette and acres of blonde timber form a backdrop for occasionally exxy food that the owners dub "hearty bistro fare". A small, carefully cooked piece of groper with braised witlof, a sprinkle of bottarga and butter beans is $35 and requires a side, but others dishes, like an entrée of rosy slivers of lightly smoked tongue, dotted with pickled garlic, a nicely acidic parsley purée and lacy bread crisps, are a steal at $15. Deeply flavoured duck rillettes comes with fig relish and lavash-style crispbreads, while a main course of blackened and pickled zucchini forms an interesting partnership with pepitas, walnuts, blue cheese and wholegrain freekeh, upping the ante for vegetarians. Craft beer beard-strokers will find a pretty decent selection by the bottle, while draught options lean to more sessionable ales. With the shaker-savvy Bonnie Shearston and Tom Sanceau in the ownership mix (together with Public partner Jason White), the slick sounding cocktail list is also worth a nudge.

London Fields, Cnr Montague Rd & Raven St, West End, Qld, (07) 3846 1593.

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