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Osteria Oggi, Adelaide

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Osteria Oggi, Adelaide.

Adelaide's default setting for casual Italian eating has usually been old school, so Osteria Oggi's light, modern approach feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu is laden with pasta, but without heavy, stodgy flavours. Even gnocchi with a robust oxtail ragù on Jerusalem artichoke purée works a nimble balancing act, as does the clean bite of gnocchetti with broccoli, anchovy and toasted pine nuts. There is also a substantial list of small plates for sharing, with highlights including veal tongue with anchovy and tuna mayonnaise, and tripe with tomato, chilli and pecorino. The smart money favours the chef's menus, either Presto Pranzo ("quick lunch"; $45 a person) or Lento ("slow"; $65 a person).

Osteria Oggi, 76 Pirie St, Adelaide, SA, (08) 8359 2525

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