The summer issue

Our summer-packed January issue is out now - featuring our guide to summer rieslings, strawberries and seafood recipes, as well as a look at the best of Bali.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller for just $6 an issue - offer ends 29th January, 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Subcontinental, Sydney

Subcontinental, Sydney

Subcontinental, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Subcontinental, Sydney.

Subcontinental by name, subterranean by nature, this new side-project from team Longrain replaces the basement space formerly occupied by Shortgrain canteen and the bar with a smart Indian diner. The layout hasn't changed dramatically. Gone are the camouflage and army men, replaced by the odd cow and elephant motif. There's a merciful absence of DJs in the room, and the carefully crafted soundtrack that somehow weaves together the works of Marvin Gaye and The Lemonheads sets an appealing tone. The careful layering of spice has long been a Longrain signature, and so it continues: duck in a cardamom-dominant curry made creamy with cashew nuts is cooked on the bone for succulence, while a long-boned lamb cutlet proves the tandoor's worth. There's not much heat and twang. The exceptions might be the intensity of the tamarind sauce with the cheese pakoras (good) and the heavy-handed use of ajwain spice on raw kingfish (not so good). But flashes of brilliance (burrata deployed in place of traditional fresh cheeses with a peanut sauce and an orange salad) and a drink-me wine list suggest some promise. It's not quite so confident an opening as Sam Christie's recent outings with The Apollo and Cho Cho San, though it may yet prove to be a slow-burn.

Subcontinental, 8 Hunt St, Surry Hills, NSW, (02) 9280 0088 

Got a hot tip for our Hot Plates team? Let us know on Facebook or tag your Instagram photos with #GThotplates.


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
What to order at Salt Bae's restaurant
17.01.2017
Hot Plates: Pino’s Vino e Cucina, Sydney
16.01.2017
Long Chim Melbourne opens today
16.01.2017
Ben Shewry does souvlaki
13.01.2017
Pure South returns to its roots
12.01.2017
Kitchen by Mike lands at Sydney Airport
12.01.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Albert Street Food & Wine

Philippa Sibley may have left the building, but Albert St F...

Aravina Estate

The family-friendly nature of Aravina explains the terracot...

Assaggio

Assaggio's very red, very mod fit-out has undeniable flair,...

Aubergine

The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, bu...

Annie Smithers' Bistrot

Annie Smithers may have decamped for Du Fermier, but the bi...

Aquitaine Brasserie

The name is a nod to France's south-west gastronomic heartl...

Bacchus - Brisbane

Rydges doesn't exactly leap to mind when you think "complex...

Balla

Pronounce it "bah-la" for Piedmont-born artist and composer...

Balthazar

The mixing of business and pleasure comes second nature to ...

Boucher

Escargots, foie gras, bouillabaisse - the expected French s...

Carlton Wine Room

The relaxed ambience and witty, irreverent service may say ...

Celsius

A land of smoke and mirrors, Celsius is an urbane, nightclu...

Citron

Mark Newman's cassia beef cheek is the type of dish that ce...

Divido

To those who dream of the old country, Divido is the modern...

David’s

David's hums with renewed energy since its transformation t...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×