On the pass: Michael Ryan, The Provenance

What's on the menu for autumn, Michael?
The mushrooms come in April and hit their straps in May.

We get inundated with field, pine and wild varieties, and either serve them cooked or preserved. We pickle a lot of vegetables with miso and nuka, a traditional Japanese way using fermented rice bran, and also shio koji, a fermented rice.

And for the meat enthusiasts among us?
Local lamb or goat from our supplier in Myrrhee in the King Valley; her capretto is the best I've ever used. We slow-cook it in duck fat overnight like a confit and serve it with pickled grapes, white gazpacho, charred cucumber, fresh curd and olive crumb.

You're passionate about the food of Japan; is it challenging to channel that in country Victoria?
You go to the supermarket in Japan and walk past store after store, pot after pot, of nuka pickles. In Beechworth we don't really have access to buy a lot of that sort of stuff, so we make our own miso, dashi, ramen for staff lunches, that sort of thing.

How often do you visit Japan?
Usually twice a year for research-slash-pleasure. As a chef you never just get away for a holiday, so I also run tours. June this year we'll go to Tokyo, Kyoto and Kanazawa on the northern coast, which is a place I really love. It has the most amazing seafood.

The Provenance, 86 Ford St, Beechworth, Vic, (03) 5728 1786


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Catch Borago chef Rodolfo Guzman in Australia next month
19.10.2017
Firedoor launches Sunday brunch series
18.10.2017
Donovan Cooke opens new restaurant Ryne in Melbourne
10.10.2017
KingFish opens, sampling poke, hip-hop and matcha treats
07.09.2017
Bridge Bon Appetit, the latest addition to Hubert, opens tonight
06.09.2017
Get to know Orana, Australia's Restaurant of the Year 2018
25.08.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for fresh dinner ideas? Not sure how to make the most out of seasonal produce? Or do you need to plan the perfect party menu? Our recipe collections have you covered.

See more

You might also like...

Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2013

There are a lot of food shots on Instagram: the good, the ba...

Where our chefs want to eat

We asked Australia's leading chefs to name the restaurants t...

Hot 100 2015 - Restaurant news

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

What the hell is Gelinaz anyway, and why is it shuffling?

On the eve of the second outing of one of the world’s strang...

Nahm named best restaurant in Asia

The 2014 50 Best Restaurants in Asia were unveiled this week...

Restaurants cooking with seaweed

With its complexity in flavour and texture, seaweed is the c...

On the pass

Tell us about Tomahawk’s menu, Ali...

S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015

A mighty fine plate of beef short ribs with roast celery vin...

Dan Barber talks sustainable food

Farm-to-table is a neat catchcry but, argues Dan Barber, one...

Alessandro Pavoni, Ormeggio, Sydney

You’ve just released your first cookbook, a tribute to Lomba...

The 2016 GT Restaurant Guide Top 100

Here's the list of our 2016 Restaurant Guide Top 100. How ma...

First look: 108 at Noma, Copenhagen

Rene Redzepi may be headed to Sydney next month, but he's ba...

Dear Sainte Eloise to open in Potts Point

Sydney’s new wine bar is going back to basics.

Party-starting playlists

Music is a key ingredient that can turn your party from good...

Grant Achatz interview

Pat Nourse talks to the chef of Chicago’s Alinea ahead of hi...