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Bar of the Year 2018
28.07.2017

Whether it's a late-night spot playing hip-hop at full volume, a throwback to the glamour of yesteryear or a bar-restaurant that slips the collar of definition, these three Bar of the Year finalists have all nailed one essential detail: good times.

Finalists for Regional Restaurant of the Year 2018
27.07.2017

These three restaurants - Fleet, Brae and Igni - might not be in capital cities, but the journey there is part of the unforgettable experience they offer.

Living off the land in winter
27.07.2017

The life of a farmer revolves around the seasons. Come winter, a certain thriftiness is needed in the kitchen to make the most of meagre produce, writes Paulette Whitney.

Why breakfast isn't the most important meal of the day in Italy
27.07.2017

Italy's claim to being the greatest of the world's cuisines has one key weakness: breakfast. But, argues John Irving, there's more to the story than first meets the eye.

Reasons to visit Los Angeles in 2017
27.07.2017

The hottest spots to eat, drink, play and stay on your next trip to LA, rounded up into one perfect day.

Reasons to visit Canberra in 2017
27.07.2017

Your guide to a perfect stay in Canberra, from where to sleep to the exhibitions you need to check out.

Restaurants with rooms
27.07.2017

Some of Australia's best dining destinations take the hassle out of a weekend stay by offering their own on-site digs where you can hit the hay in style after your meal.

Finalists for Maitre D' of the Year 2018
26.07.2017

The maitre d' is your first introduction to a restaurant - they do as much to create a sense of ambience as lighting, tableware and music. And these three professionals are top of the class.

Grand Gelinaz Shuffle, Orana, Adelaide

Mehmet Gürs at Orana

Mehmet Gürs at Orana

Raw kingfish with green ants and finger limes is unlike anything that chef Mehmet Gürs cooks at Mikla, his restaurant in Istanbul, yet it led a sequence of eight ambitious dishes he served at Orana in Adelaide for the Grand Gelinaz Shuffle last night. But then, that's the magic of the Shuffle. This international chef exchange had 37 chefs secretly planted in other restaurants for five days devising new menus for a globally orchestrated showcase dinner. Australian diners snapped up tickets in May for dinner at the two local participants, Orana in Adelaide and Attica in Melbourne, not knowing whether they'd get Alain Ducasse, Alex Atala, René Redzepi or David Thompson. Attica got Tokyo chef Yoshihiro Narisawa, and Adelaide got Gürs, champion of contemporary Turkish cooking.

Gürs enthusiastically embraced Orana's pantry of local indigenous ingredients, especially after visiting a marron farm and a specialist indigenous nursery. His inspiration took shape in dishes such as kangaroo tail in manti (aka Turkey's favourite dumpling) with smoked labne and kutjera sauce. Diners were also wowed by marron tail in macadamia milk infused with mountain pepper.

"There's a lot I will take home - mainly ideas and inspiration from how the Orana kitchen operates," says Gürs. "This was hardcore - lots of pressure to deliver, but also lots of excitement." Orana's Jock Zonfrillo, meanwhile, was at David Kinch's Manresa in California, where he served geoduck clam, kombucha and broccoli, and a version of Kinch's signature of abalone with abalone custard and seaweed.

A grand experiment, and one we'd gladly embrace a second time around.

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