The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

Hot Plates: St Hugo restaurant and tasting room, Barossa Valley

Pork corquette

Pork corquette

Wine leads the dance at the new St Hugo restaurant and tasting room in the Barossa. It's a grand positioning statement by Pernod Ricard, St Hugo's multinational parent company, the intimate 44-seat restaurant mixing rugged tradition and modernity in a restored 1854 ironstone cottage on the Jacobs Creek property.            

Executive chef Mark McNamara, best known for having established Barossa fine diner Appellation, cooks smart French-accented dishes across two tasting menus that take their cues from the St Hugo wines presented with each course. He doesn't revert to obvious or conservative pairings, either - mulloway fillet with red wine, shallots, peas, wakame and thyme is boldly teamed with the showpiece 2010 St Hugo Vetus Purum Cabernet Sauvignon.

Twice-cooked duck with black sesame and molasses finds an easy harmony in French and Asian flavours, while a croquette of pork, hazelnut and tofu with black pudding and celeriac is paired very effectively with the 2012 St Hugo Private Collection Seppeltsfield Region Shiraz. The meal closes with a light citrus, avocado, macadamia and burnt-butter tart, matched to 1970 Tawny Port.

St Hugo restaurant and tasting room.

It marks an impressive return for McNamara. He had vowed to quit restaurants when he left Appellation four years ago, but the opportunity to build this new venture from scratch proved too tempting. The resulting dining experience, with crisp service and smart attention to wine presentation, provides another alluring point of different in a region with a league of outstanding winery restaurants, including Hentley Farm and Fino at Seppeltsfield.

Six high stools around the chef's table facing into the kitchen offer devotees the chance to witness his work at close range.

Wines are included in four- or eight-course tasting menus ($120 and $220 per person, respectively).

St Hugo, 2141 Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat, SA, (08) 8115 9200; lunch Thu-Mon from noon, dinner Fri-Sat from 6pm, sthugo.com/restaurant 

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