The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

Hot Plate: Jimmy Wah's, Burleigh Heads

Mural of Jimmy Wah

Mural of Jimmy Wah

This bright new Vietnamese eatery at Burleigh Heads punches above its weight in the flavour stakes.

There are tunes from the '60s and '70s on rotation and a mural of Jimmy Wah from '80s film classic Good Morning, Vietnam dominates one wall, but this mod Vietnamese newcomer is firmly in 2016.

With polished concrete flooring and American oak furniture (a mix of high and low tables) to the eye-catching backlit bar along its back wall, it's unfussy, smart dining, with proper linen napkins, decent glassware and no corners cut. A pared-back, nicely balanced menu is as detailed as the airy fit-out.

The easiest approach is via a generous "feed me" sharing menu ($59 per person), weighing in at seven dishes. Taut-skinned rice paper rolls bulge with local prawns and a herb-amped vermicelli salad, while bowls of pho bo arrive bearing dense, intensely savoury oxtail-based stock with just the right amount of brisket, coriander and chilli. Kingfish sashimi is delicate yet flavour-forward, the pink-tinged flesh dotted with tiny crisp onion rings and zinged up with a coconut, Thai basil and finger lime dressing that packs a whack of chilli heat. Service is well paced, the floor-staff rocking pale-grey culottes and linen shirts, the shiny green suit of the fictional Jimmy Wah nowhere to be seen.

A slightly one-dimensional king prawn curry is overburdened with coconut milk and lacks the punch of earlier efforts, but slices of rosy duck breast scattered with puffed rice, micro-shiso, yuzu and young ginger kick things back into gear.

Thirsty? Cocktails take their cue from the kitchen with the likes of a spiced rum Bubble Mai-Chai Tea and Viet Daiquiri and more on pour, or grab an icy can of Da Noi. The wine list, like the rest of the offer, punches above its weight.

Jimmy Wah's, 1724 Gold Coast Hwy, Burleigh Heads, Qld, (07) 5659 1180, www.jimmywahs.com.au

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