Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller and receive a copy of Nordic Light - offer ends 23 April 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

The Royal Mail Hotel is changing
28.03.2017

Executive chef Robin Wickens has a stronger influence at the Royal Mail Hotel's upcoming restaurant, slated to open later this year.

Adventuring along America's north-west rivers
28.03.2017

The rivers of America's north-west running through Washington state and Oregon form the arteries of epic landscapes and bold discovery routes. Emma Sloley follows in the wake of Lewis and Clark.

The World's Best sommeliers are coming to Australia
28.03.2017

For the first time, the world's top international sommeliers will take part in the World's 50 Best Awards too.

Seven Italian dishes that shaped fine dining in the 2000s
28.03.2017

Italian food in the restaurants of Australia blossomed into maturity in the new millennium, as the work of these trailblazers shows – dazzling and diverse, a successful balance between adaptation and tradition.

Steam ovens: a guide
27.03.2017

Billed as the faster, cleaner way to cook, are these on-trend ovens all they’re cracked up to be? We take a close look at their rising popularity, USP versus the traditional convection cooker and how each type rates in terms of form, function, and above all, flavour in this buyer’s guide.

Our chocolate issue is out now
27.03.2017

Our April issue is out now. In his editor's letter, Pat Nourse walks you through what to expect.

Roast pork with Nelly Robinson
27.03.2017

Nelly Robinson of Sydney's nel. restaurant talks us through his favourite roasting joints, tips for crisp roast potatoes and why, when it comes to pork, slow and steady always wins the race.

Water carafes
24.03.2017

More than mere vessels, these pieces bring a cool breeze of style from the fridge to the table.

Flour and Stone Recipes

Baker extraordinaire Nadine Ingram of Sydney's Flour and Stone cooks up a sweet storm for Easter, including the much loved bakery's greatest hit.

Fast autumn dinners

Autumn weather signals the arrival of soups, broths, roasts and more hearty meals.

Roasted cauliflower salad with yoghurt dressing and almonds

The cauliflower is roasted until it starts to caramelise, which adds extra depth of flavour to this winning salad. Serve it warm or at room temperature.

All Star Yum Cha

What happens the morning after the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards? We treat the chefs to a world-beating yum cha session, as Dani Valent discovers.

New cruises 2017

Cue the Champagne.

1980s recipes

Australia saw some bold moves in the ’80s, and we’re not just talking hairstyles. Greater cultural references started peppering the menus of our restaurants, and home-grown ingredients won a new appreciation. The dining scene was coming of age and a new band of pioneers led the charge.

Savoury tarts

Will your next baking project be a flaky puff pastry with pumpkin, goat's curd and thyme, or a classic bacon and Stilton tart? As autumn settles in, we're ticking these off one by one.

Melbournes finest meet Worlds Best

Leading chefs descend on Melbourne in April for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. We asked local hospitality folk who they’d abduct for the day and where they’d take them to show off their city. There may be coffee, there may be culture, but in the end it’s cocktails.

Philippe Mouchel is back

Philippe's pâté en croûte

Philippe's pâté en croûte

A French bistro with a modern spin opens this week on Melbourne's Collins Street.

Lovers of fine rôtisserie chicken, rejoice: Philippe Mouchel is back. The revered French chef who arrived in Melbourne 25 years ago for Restaurant Paul Bocuse and liked the city so much he stayed has finally thrown open the doors on his new city digs - and, yes, the chicken rôtissoire is along for the ride.

Mouchel has had a peripatetic career since the closure of his Crown casino restaurant, The Brasserie by Philippe Mouchel, in 2010. There was the maddeningly short-lived PM24, under the umbrella of the Made Establishment, followed by his deliberately short-lived St Kilda Road pop-up, Déjà Vue. Now he returns with a permanent address, at the Paris end, appropriately enough, of Collins Street.

Philippe, as it's called - perhaps an indication he's reached one-name-only status - takes over a basement space with history of its own. First it was Greg Malouf's Momo, then Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, followed by Tobie Puttock's The Kitchen Cat and most recently Brooks, which went into voluntary liquidation in September last year.

The good bones of Brooks didn't call for too dramatic a makeover from architects Crosier Scott, who've gone a route best described as French industrial chic. "The feel of the place is bistro with modern ambience," says Mouchel. "It was a little dark for me so we've done a lot of work on the lighting, and we put in a vertical garden in the bar area for a little bit of freshness to the room." The addition of a handsome zinc bar mounts a case that this is the city's premier place to slurp freshly shucked oysters au naturel or anointed with seawater jelly and watercress cream.

"A good French bistro" is what Mouchel calls it, backed by a menu in violent agreement. The cooking remains indebted to the alchemy of elegant sauces that don't encumber his personal brand of simple but elegant dishes. "The food has a lot of modern touches, like the cured salmon with walnut mayonnaise, and there are a lot of things I had to do, like the roast lamb on the rôtissoire for two."

Expect familiar names: chestnut velouté (with king brown mushroom crisps), escargots in parsley and garlic butter, and braised beef cheek (with carrots, cumin and bacon emulsion). The haute rôtisserie chicken is the same that wowed the city at PM24: buttery, herby, lemony, served with potatoes cooked in the bird's juices.

Mouchel has something of a dream team. His head chef is Aurelien Gransagne from two-Michelin-starred L'Espérance, and Tim Sawyer, of the Yarra Valley's Bella Vedere, is in charge of the floor. Add linen tablecloths and a cheese trolley doing the rounds of the dining room and the world is put back on its axis.

Philippe, 115 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 8394 6625, philipperestaurant.com.au

Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
The Royal Mail Hotel is changing
28.03.2017
Happy first birthday, Bar Brose
17.03.2017
Happening Hobart
16.03.2017
Neil Perry pulls out of haute cuisine; Eleven Bridge to close
15.03.2017
Aaron Carr to leave Vasse Felix after 21 years
15.03.2017
Momofuku takes over Lee Ho Fook
15.03.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2013

There are a lot of food shots on Instagram: the good, the ba...

Where our chefs want to eat

We asked Australia's leading chefs to name the restaurants t...

Hot 100 2015 - Restaurant news

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

What the hell is Gelinaz anyway, and why is it shuffling?

On the eve of the second outing of one of the world’s strang...

Grant Achatz interview

Pat Nourse talks to the chef of Chicago’s Alinea ahead of hi...

Nahm named best restaurant in Asia

The 2014 50 Best Restaurants in Asia were unveiled this week...

Restaurants cooking with seaweed

With its complexity in flavour and texture, seaweed is the c...

On the pass

Tell us about Tomahawk’s menu, Ali...

S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015

A mighty fine plate of beef short ribs with roast celery vin...

Dan Barber talks sustainable food

Farm-to-table is a neat catchcry but, argues Dan Barber, one...

Alessandro Pavoni, Ormeggio, Sydney

You’ve just released your first cookbook, a tribute to Lomba...

The 2016 GT Restaurant Guide Top 100

Here's the list of our 2016 Restaurant Guide Top 100. How ma...

First look: 108 at Noma, Copenhagen

Rene Redzepi may be headed to Sydney next month, but he's ba...

Party-starting playlists

Music is a key ingredient that can turn your party from good...

Edible seaweed guide

With its complexity in flavour and texture, seaweed is the c...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×