Hot Plates: Damon Amos opens Detour, Woolloongabba

Gunpowder-cured salmon

Gunpowder-cured salmon

When chef-owner Damon Amos chose Detour as a name for his new Brisbane restaurant he had no idea how apt it would end up being, or how long and circuitous the path to launch-day would be.

It's taken more than a year to carve out Detour's contemporary interiors, housed in painstakingly worked heritage digs on Woolloongabba's Logan Road antique strip.

Interior.

The results are striking and detailed. A timber plating-up bench sits centrestage, a burnished copper backdrop soaring up behind creating an eye-catching foil for the room's lofty ceilings, vertical slatted timber walls, hardwood flooring, steel girders and craggy brick walls. At night, the interior glows invitingly. It offers a handsome frame for the team's distinctive, sometimes outré share plates, and a wine list showcasing small producers.

Salmon arrives cured and seasoned by gunpowder - actual gunpowder - the fillet dramatically blackened by the combination of charcoal, potassium and magnesium. The explosive mix adds a salty, slightly peppery metallic note to the rosy flesh, which plays well with the chilli-forward coconut green curry cream it's served with. Coriander cress, chives and a sprinkling of citric-flavoured black ants and toasty rice puffs add further layers of flavour and texture.

Emu tartare.

Emu tartare arrives on a crisp oversized cracker. Sprigs of dill top the hand-cut emu flank, rich splotches of pasteurised yolk and charry-edged sweet banana shallots, the whole thing dressed with smoked habanero seasoning and caramelised shallot oil. It's also one of the few dishes on the menu that contains gluten, part of a general inclination (which includes half the menu being free of animal products) towards keeping offerings friendly to a broad array of dietary requirements.

Pink fir potatoes are elevated to luxury fare, cooked in seawater, then blinged up with saffron strands, garlic, and a scattering of flash-fried sea lettuce. Dessert follows the same surprise-and-delight drill. A nutty vegan meringue, made from chickpea cooking-water and cashew syrup, is poached in liquid nitrogen and paired with almond cream, basil snow, basil leaves and basil seeds.

Interior.

It may have taken the long way round to get here but Detour is definitely a trip worth taking.

Detour, 11 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, Qld, (07) 3217 4880, detourrestaurant.com.au


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Byron Bay gets a Chinese barbecue restaurant, Duk
10.11.2017
Royal Mail Hotel unveils Wickens
09.11.2017
Our favourite dishes: November 2017
03.11.2017
The perfect Christmas present for every gourmet
03.11.2017
New York’s Eleven Madison Park has a new look
30.10.2017
Ormeggio takes a Spanish detour
30.10.2017
The Gourmet Traveller podcast

Each fortnight we round up the most interesting characters from the food world for your listening pleasure. We chat to chefs, cooks, authors, bar tenders and baristas - anyone who has something new and interesting to say about the way we like to eat and drink.

Listen
Recipe collections

Looking for fresh dinner ideas? Not sure how to make the most out of seasonal produce? Or do you need to plan the perfect party menu? Our recipe collections have you covered.

See more

You might also like...

Hot Plate: Face2Face Noodles, Sydney

Chinatown's new spicy Chongqing-styled noodle bar is complet...

Hot Plates: Higher Ground, Melbourne

The line between cafe and restaurant is blurred at the CBD’s...

Hot Plates: Shobosho, Adelaide

North Asia meets Australian barbecue at Shobosho, Adam Listo...

L'Americano, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Estelle Bistro, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bang Street Food, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Minamishima, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Lilo Tang, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Mayflower Restaurant and Bar, Adelaide

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

The Vertue of the Coffee Drink, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Spirit House, Yandina, Qld

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bistro Nguyen's, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

University of Melbourne Farmers' Market

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Clayton Wells at LuMi

The pair join forces for Sunday lunches at LuMi.

Farmhouse Restaurant, Pialligo Estate, ACT

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...