Bar Brosé: short but sweet

Bar Brosé's neon sign

Bar Brosé's neon sign

With the sudden announcement last week that Bar Brosé had closed, many Sydney diners were already missing the gougères. Here’s our recap of the restaurant’s great 18 months.

With the sudden announcement last week that Bar Brosé had closed, many Sydney diners were already missing the gougères. Here's our recap of the restaurant's great 18 months.

Opened in March 2016 in the space that was once The Passage, Bar Brosé was the second venture from the team behind Acme: Andy Emerson, Cam Fairbairn, Mitch Orr and Ed Loveday. Head chef, Analiese Gregory, was also a co-owner.

In June this year, the team announced Gregory was leaving Sydney for the top job at Hobart restaurant Franklin.

Following her departure at the end of June, former Yellow chef Adam Wolfers did an eight-week stint at Brosé with Marc Dempsey, also late of Yellow, on the floor. Called Ételek - the Hungarian word for food - the menu was a distillation of Wolfers' Jewish-Hungarian upbringing and inventive vegetarian cooking at Yellow.

The last day of Wolfers' pop-up was 27 August, which came and went with no announcement of future plans for the Brosé kitchen.

On 6 September, Loveday announced via an Instagram post that Bar Brosé had closed.

Inside Bar Brosé

The closure was a tough decision. "It's a hard industry," says Orr. "Everyone feels it at different times and in different ways. It got to the point where we decided it was the best option."

Speaking to Gourmet Traveller, Orr thanked customers, suppliers and the industry for their support, adding that it "sucks to have to close something that you worked hard to open - and worked hard at when it was open".

And what a place it was. Gallic inspiration came in the form of Comté gougères - a non-negotiable order - and the poulet au vin du Marrickville. The late-night sandwich was another must, while the gnocchi with lap cheong and kombu butter was a nod to the Chinese side of her family.

The potato dessert, inspired by Gregory's time in the Aubrac with Michel Bras, used sweetened potato rounds as wafers to sandwich brown-butter mousse and salted caramel. 

The late-night sandwich

Gregory joined the Franklin team in early August. She's been making her own cheese (follow along at home with #franklincheesefiles) and showcasing Tasmania's seafood in dishes such as a whole wood-roasted dory doused in abalone gut butter and served with local wakame.

Wolfers is taking his Ételek concept on the road, selling out a pop-up in Melbourne this week and with another coming up at Canberra's Bar Rochford later this month.

As for the Brosé crew, it's business as usual over at Acme in Rushcutters Bay.


The Gourmet Traveller podcast

Each fortnight we round up the most interesting characters from the food world for your listening pleasure. We chat to chefs, cooks, authors, bar tenders and baristas - anyone who has something new and interesting to say about the way we like to eat and drink.

Listen
Recipe collections

Looking for fresh dinner ideas? Not sure how to make the most out of seasonal produce? Or do you need to plan the perfect party menu? Our recipe collections have you covered.

See more

You might also like...

Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2013

There are a lot of food shots on Instagram: the good, the ba...

Where our chefs want to eat

We asked Australia's leading chefs to name the restaurants t...

Hot 100 2015 - Restaurant news

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

What the hell is Gelinaz anyway, and why is it shuffling?

On the eve of the second outing of one of the world’s strang...

Nahm named best restaurant in Asia

The 2014 50 Best Restaurants in Asia were unveiled this week...

Restaurants cooking with seaweed

With its complexity in flavour and texture, seaweed is the c...

On the pass

Tell us about Tomahawk’s menu, Ali...

S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015

A mighty fine plate of beef short ribs with roast celery vin...

Dan Barber talks sustainable food

Farm-to-table is a neat catchcry but, argues Dan Barber, one...

Alessandro Pavoni, Ormeggio, Sydney

You’ve just released your first cookbook, a tribute to Lomba...

The 2016 GT Restaurant Guide Top 100

Here's the list of our 2016 Restaurant Guide Top 100. How ma...

First look: 108 at Noma, Copenhagen

Rene Redzepi may be headed to Sydney next month, but he's ba...

Dear Sainte Eloise to open in Potts Point

Sydney’s new wine bar is going back to basics.

Party-starting playlists

Music is a key ingredient that can turn your party from good...

Grant Achatz interview

Pat Nourse talks to the chef of Chicago’s Alinea ahead of hi...