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River House

It doesn’t enjoy the river orientation of others in town, but the dual-level dining space is eye-catching and buzzy enough, with polished black floors, white walls and banks of louvres. Service is courteous, if a little coastal casual at times. An interesting international wine list offers half bottles and well-known and boutique labels. The menu changes daily to take advantage of the best produce and it’s a challenge met with confidence by owner/chef David Rayner. Mahi mahi might share a plate with fennel, cucumber, orange and chilli one evening and the next be served with saffron broth and braised leeks. Pasta could be orecchiette with cherry tomatoes, broad beans and goat’s curd. Pork rillettes comes with mustard apricots and pickled walnuts; pork terrine with pistachios has sweet pickled grapes. Proof of the commitment to quality is also in the puddings: mousse-textured baked chocolate tart is a knockout.