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Rock

Rock Restaurant at Poole’s Rock Wines was intended to create a synergy between wine, food and location. But while the sleek room overlooks vines, Andrew Clarke overlooks nothing. The impeccably credentialed Clarke likes the concept of simplicity and allowing top regional produce to be the hero. But he’s too modest by half. His food is so luxurious, so resolutely creative and crafted, that eating here is a daring adventure and an engrossing masterclass. He is the sort of chef who can pair spatchcock and fig galantine with charred sprouts, and wood-roasted lamb cutlets with carrot linguine, pea purée and a magic caraway jus with subtle licorice notes. The stellar cellar has stratospherically priced classics but also sensibly priced offerings by the glass. Inspired menus offer dishes in tasting, entrée or main sizes, allowing infinite flexibility. Service is confident. Attitude is absent. This place is seriously good.