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Rockpool Bar & Grill

The candle-lit corridor connecting Neil Perry’s western outpost with the outside world promises occasion-dining that the gold-gilded room and vast menu deliver on. This is food best enjoyed communally, so assemble a crew, use your combined buying power to ransack the stellar cellar and check that entrée-main mentality at the door. The first whiff of roast crab slapped with cumin, jalapeño and preserved lemon signals “every eater for themselves”, while goat’s curd tortellini with plump pan-fried prawns, burnt butter and raisins has flavour to spare. The comfort of rôtisserie chicken handsomely repays your wait; the formidable array of house-aged beef is deserving of its prices. While service can be uneven, there are more diamonds than rough on the floor, ensuring smooth sailing right to the final spoonful of jaffa mousse cake, one of the many fail-safe desserts.