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Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Only the decision-phobic could fail to enjoy Rockpool Bar & Grill, though they’d at least have the joy of sitting in the magnificent dining space, all soaring green pillars, leather armchairs and sculptures of Riedel glass. But Neil Perry’s sprawling menu, listing some of the best beef and seafood in the country, and a similarly broad-reaching and finely tuned wine list could tip them. Good news, then, that it’s hard to find a miss here whether you’re talking a surprising, ethereal combination of tuna tartare with harissa, spiced eggplant and cumin mayonnaise, brilliant semolina noodles tossed with crabmeat and spicy prawn oil, a side of mushy peas with a slow-cooked egg or one of the justifiably raved-about (and pricey) dry-aged steaks. Desserts, brilliant takes on old-school classics from pavlova to rhubarb pudding, are as smooth and comforting as the truly exceptional service.