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Rockpool

Rockpool has changed. What was once Neil Perry’s flagship is now a branch of a brand that extends to the steak-focused Grill in Melbourne (and another to come in Sydney). Despite the more casual makeover and more open, user-pays approach to extras like canapés and petits fours, the core mission is the same. The à la carte menu remains one of the priciest in the country, but the standard of cooking and produce remains concomitantly exceptional. Scallops from the tank, served raw with black bean and chilli, are shockingly fresh and sweet. Bass groper, one of the eight or so finfish that make up the mains, is simply roasted with clams and jamón, the handling of the fish impeccable from line to fork. Service displays traces of hauteur; take it in your stride. We could fill a separate entry discussing richness and quality of desserts and wine; in lieu of that, we’ll simply bid you to see for yourself.