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Rockpool

So great is the shadow cast by its Bar & Grill sibling that it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that Rockpool is where the magic began more than 20 years ago. And the culinary sorcery is still here: a dish of warm soy milk is brought to the table, stirred with an arcane setting agent. Ten minutes later, the cloth is lifted and it has become silken tofu, the base for the John Dory and scampi broth, studded with bamboo pith, spooned over it tableside. Spectacle and substance: it could be the Rockpool credo. It certainly fits with the glam big-nightout room and the crisp service, not to mention the weighty wine list. Whether it’s the Chinese-influenced likes of the chilli-warmed lobster and peanut congee or the more cosmopolitan duck pastrami with mustard bread and sea urchin butter or simply a straight passionfruit soufflé, this is food (and a restaurant) worth getting excited about.