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Rockpool Bar & Grill

On the one hand, it’s unapologetically clubbish and rarefied, expensive and exclusive, staffed by an army of smartly attired wait-staff who glide smoothly around the mood-lit dining room. On the other, you can eat one of the best burgers in the country in the bar for $18. An array of dry-aged beef and glistening oysters provides the outfit’s raison d’être, and the dilemma it embodies: do you opt for one of the signature wood-grilled steaks, or go for what some argue is even finer seafood, such as the renowned sashimi or crisp snapper with baby peas and artichokes? Either way, there’s no trickery involved, just meticulously sourced produce allowed to shine. The appropriately vast wine list adds to the package, as do desserts that are simultaneously homely and exquisite. Rockpool’s big-city, big-money atmosphere won’t suit all, but its status as a restaurant of note is assured.