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Rockpool Bar & Grill, Melbourne

A good argument can be made for coming to Rockpool Bar & Grill just for the steaks – a 13-strong range of meticulously sourced, expensive woodfire-grilled beauties – and, with its supersized clubby masculinity, the dining room certainly underlines the upmarket steakhouse shtick. But ignoring the seafood at this branch of Neil Perry’s empire isn’t sensible, especially with dishes in play such as squid-ink noodles with squid, bacon and chilli or a beautiful crudo of assorted fish with finger limes, horseradish and citrus oil. A hefty list of sides – Nicola potatoes sautéed with wagyu fat and rosemary, a ridiculously good mac and cheese – could make meals in themselves, while the crème brûlée or a hazelnut macaron and banana ice-cream “sandwich” keep up their end of the dessert bargain. A huge, impressive wine list and service that rarely misses a trick wrap up this thoroughly enjoyable package.