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Sage

Whether it’s a mood of buzzy warmth in winter or the pleasures of one of Canberra’s nicer outdoor dining areas in the warmer months, Sage has atmosphere in spades. The food can be ambitious; not in a foams-and-gels manner so much as simply having quite a lot happening on each plate. Scallops, for instance, sit interleaved with crisp coins of chorizo on a raked bed of chestnut cream accompanied by pale celery leaves and daubs of sauce. But the dish works. The same can’t be said for the brisket, which shows little of the tenderness the 12 hours of cooking in its menu description might suggest, and is surprisingly dry for a cut sold as highly marbled wagyu. It’s a mark of the care on the floor, though, that the offending dish is taken off the bill, leaving the happy table to segue into mandarin crêpes Suzette, flamed tableside. Ahh, comfort.