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Sailors Thai

The rest of the world, it has to be said, is catching up to Sailors Thai. Interesting, authentic Thai food is now far more commonplace than when it opened more than 15 years ago, and indeed the gap between the quality of food and service here and at the various Sailors Thai Canteens has narrowed. But make no mistake, this is still the nation’s premier fine-dining Thai restaurant, its flowers fresh and its cloths as crisp as the salted chicken with longans in wafers are unusual. The depth of the wine list, too, is more than matched by the complex interplay between a superior red duck curry and its salted duck egg and pickled ginger garnish. Service is polite, if not quite note-perfect. The candied coconut dumplings and smoked coconut ice-cream remain, meanwhile, as timelessly appealing as the heritage sandstone-meets-90s polished concrete look.