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Saké

If there’s a better place to start here than with Saké’s snapper white soy, we’re yet to find it. Slivers dressed with yuzu and white soy is a revelation in modern Japanese. But so is the whole of this sprawling, dimly lit, riverfront spot. Zippy staff dash between private rooms, sunken tables, counters and the bar, delivering shared dishes in the order the chefs feel best suits. Sashimi tacos – bright, delicate flesh in a crunchy shell – come with a shot of sake; a seaweed salad punches above its weight in bonito-edged umami. Though the wine list is no afterthought, around 50 sakes steal the show, complementing the Nobu-esque flavours – jalapeño, coriander and tomato in the tuna ceviche pay homage to fusion flair, while sushi is both Tokyo-faithful and playful. The frozen yuzu soufflé, tart and edgy, makes for an uplifting grand finale.