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Salopian Inn

The Salopian Inn is as much part of the McLaren Vale landscape as the vines seen through the dining room’s windows. The 150-year-old building was an inn for travellers en route to Willunga. These days travellers take a break from the wine trail and acquaint themselves with the region’s other bounty. New chef Billy Dohnt seems to be settling into his new surroundings. Lamb brains are a sensual treat, the crunch of a fine coating giving way to mousse-like richness, balanced by a lemon and caper sauce. Figs and blue cheese fill a case of impeccable pastry and Gulf St Vincent bouillabaisse is a messy celebration of the local waters. Only a flavourless poached peach disappoints. There’s no wine list, with the limited selection of mostly regional bottles displayed in racks and fridges in the cellar, which makes it difficult to ask for advice from the otherwise well-informed and relaxed staff.