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Satsuki

The way George Yamahara treats seafood and vinegared rice borders on the chivalrous, yet Satsuki’s appeal runs deeper than excellent sushi. Despite its simplicity, a salad of raw kingfish and tuna, crunchy mizuna leaves and a sharp wafu dressing shows the same attention to detail as sweet smoked scallops, kombu-hit cuttlefish and the rest of Yamahara’s edomae sushi iterations. Behind the noren curtain that separates the kitchen from the convivial dining room, Juntaro Okumura oversees the preparation of cooked dishes high on elegance and flavour. Miso-licked perch flakes apart at the prod of a chopstick, while Dorper lamb cutlets simmered in soy serve as poster boys for Satsuki’s modern triumphs. That said, desserts are a little off the mark, so take that as a green light to go big on the menu-proper, preferably with another tokkuri of sake from the Japanese booze offerings.