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Sepia

Sepia isn’t Japanese exactly, but there’s something of the rising sun, nonetheless, in a dessert of polished ebony “pebbles”, even if the crack of the spoon reveals them to be crisp chocolate shells holding sour cherry jelly, ganache and coconut cream. It’s exactly the sort of quiet finesse they go in for in this zaibatsu-chic room, with exactly that occasional Japanese accent, as befits a restaurant run by a former Tetsuya’s head chef. The care and elegance that restaurant is known for can be found within the pages of Sepia’s protein-heavy, seafood-rich menu, but there’s a vigour here that gives it an edge: scallop sushi, the shellfish blackened with a nori coating and teamed with puffed rice and avocado cream, is an instant signature, while the pairing of yabbies and pork elsewhere is a flash of classical brilliance. Exceptional wine service adds further muscle to a new heavyweight.