Fish and white wine. A bit of a no-brainer really. Especially in the middle of summer. They go together as perfectly as slip, slop and slap, or beer and beach cricket. But for a dish like this, with its extra layer of smoky flavour, its crunchy-cold bite of fennel and apple and its little spirituous bombs of sweetness in the Marsala-soaked currants, you probably don’t want a white that’s too light or too crisp and dry; a cheeky young unwooded Hunter semillon, for example, normally such a good fish wine, could taste thin and tart up against the charry and sweet elements of the dish. I’ve plumped instead for a viognier: a white wine with lots of perfume and rich texture in the mouth, often augmented by fermentation and maturation in barrel. As regular readers will know, at this point I normally recommend wines from three different producers, but this month I’m suggesting you check out wines from just one winemaker. Yalumba has been making viognier for longer than almost anyone in Australia, and has totally nailed the variety at all price points, from around $10 to $50. It is hard to find a viognier better than these.