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Café Sopra

Surrender the convenience of bookings at Sopra, and you are rewarded with lively, very keenly priced Italianate dining amid the shelves of the light-strewn first floor of Fratelli Fresh. This hip providore specialises in restaurant-quality produce and imported Italian drygoods. Andy Bunn’s menu is much more than the sum of those parts, whether it’s the nous that goes into an intense white-wine braise of osso buco, or the restraint that presents fragrant top-of-the-season strawberries simply with Chantilly cream. Service is café-style, and wine is similarly off-the-cuff. If you’re looking for something a little more languid, you can book the courtyard table for warmer months. At $500, whether you’re two or 10, it can be an extraordinary bargain. As we go to press, a Fratelli Fresh has opened at 81 Macleay Street, Potts Point. Barring the fact that it opens for dinner, it’s pretty much identical – in other words, brilliant.