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Spice Temple

The latest instalment in Neil Perry’s gastronomic empire is this version of Spice Temple and it’s hot, hot, hot. Contemporary Chinese food full of exotic spices, plenty of Sichuan pepper and chillies is tempered by aromatic wines from a sharply focused list. The large, lavish dining room and downstairs bar are dark – more seductive than gloomy. And there’s enough fire in the “strange flavour white-cut chicken” to light up the place. Named for the unusual combination of black vinegar and sesame paste, the dish features cold, perfectly poached Maryland in a fragrant dressing topped with dried chilli, roast peanuts and sesame seeds. The excellent wait-staff advise on the chilli factor. odge the burn with shredded duck with wood-ear mushrooms and water chestnuts or fried squid with whole five spice. Residual heat can be soothed by rockmelon granita topped with ginger syrup.