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Spirit House

Five spice-infused pear Bellini sets the scene, as wind chimes echo through the Thai pavilion suspended above a central pond. The message is this: ready yourself for full-on flavour. Whole snapper fried crisp with tamarind chilli sauce, a Spirit House signature, is as much a festival of pristine meat and jammy, sticky, sweet and sour flavours as ever, accompanied by exceptionally fragrant jasmine rice. Miangs, morsels of smoked prawn with finger lime, chilli and palm sugar wrapped in betel leaves, are a harmonious blend of smoke, heat, sweetness and zing. Service, meanwhile, is stellar; the waiters have a pleasing knowledge of the menu and readily offer details of cooking techniques. Come night-time, bamboo flares light the way through expansive gardens planted with bamboos, gingers and other exotics grown for the Spirit House kitchen. Magical stuff.