The seafood white wine par excellence is Chablis. From vineyards planted in the limestone-strewn soils of the cool Chablis region north of Burgundy, come white wines made from the chardonnay grape – wines which unequivocally reflect both climate and ‘terroir’. There can be a honeyed richness in Chablis wines – a weight of flavour and almost creamy texture perfectly matched with the sweetness of the squid and pine nuts in this dish – but the overwhelming experience of drinking good Chablis is one of citrussy, lean, steely dryness – like sucking on river pebbles. You’re left hankering for another morsel of food and another sip of cool white to wash it down. And another… – Max Allen