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Sunnybrae

Lunch at Sunnybrae is not completely unlike a visit to a slightly eccentric uncle in the sticks. The kitchen gardens grow deep and long, the shelves of the eclectically decorated homestead loom tall with books. The twist is that the uncle in question here, George Biron, can cook like the blazes. Over the course of one of his set menus you could encounter the finger-lickin’ likes of shoulder of young goat smoked in the wood oven out the back, with a very fragrant pistachio and date burghul pilaf, or a plate of cotechino and black pudding from Melbourne butcher Donati’s, sticky and rich, the trad lentil accompaniment leavened with currants. Flavours pop and soothe by turns, right up to the finale of saffron-poached pear with honey and elderflower liqueur, and service is assured and welcoming. Throw in good wine and you’ve got destination-dining at its most rewarding.