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Tartufo

Au revoir Belle Époque, benvenuto Tartufo. Owner/chef Tony Percuoco brings his Neapolitan heritage to the plate via ravioloni al pomodoro. No surprises, just darned fine execution, with butter adding richness and all-round satisfaction. Soft figs pull up wrapped in a salty casing of prosciutto sauced with Gorgonzola and mascarpone. Pappardelle is well suited to the rabbit ragù even if it’s not made in-house. Timbales of panna cotta quiver gently en route from kitchen to table, silken and beautiful. Italian wines abound, though those ordered by the glass arrive already poured – not something you’d expect at this price-point. Otherwise, service is on song. Beneath a pressed metal ceiling, Percuoco, resplendent in whites, wanders the floor, shaking hands and kissing cheeks around red-studded banquettes and linen-clad tables. It’s genuine Italian hospitality.