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Tetsuya’s

Three-star establishments the world over work to balance excitement against the need for utter consistency; change, in this Bond Villain-lair of a building, is in the detail. A green slick of parsley oil on a Japanese-style custard of leek and crab, the striking salty lift of bottarga on ink-dressed finely sliced squid ‘noodles’, or the surprise of chilled corn soup with saffron and vanilla ice-cream – at the start rather than the end of the meal. Tetsuya’s restaurant-craft is unmatched in Australia, each service proceeding with stately assurance through 12 small courses of Japanese-European elegance, most of it seafood, much of it raw, its plating exquisite. It’s a long meal, and repeat visitors may find themselves hankering for more variation. We’d love to see the desserts meet the standard set by the preceding dishes, but Tetsuya’s remains one of our most sought-after tables for good reason.