Send to a friend

Print

del.icio.us this

Digg this

The Atlantic

Crown’s latest addition to top-end, name-chef dining is a 300-seat seafood behemoth that stretches along the Yarra, taking advantage of river and city views. It’s a huge space, successfully divided into more intimate areas, though the muted colour scheme lacks spark. Good thing, then, that Donovan Cooke, freshly returned to Melbourne from a stint at the Hong Kong Jockey Club, is in the house, plating up pretty food such as paprika-marinated octopus salad, scrambled eggs mixed with sea urchin, caviar and Champagne foam, sculptural seafood platters and an ever-changing variety of fish cooked on and off the bone. There’s a great array of oysters, caviar for the flush and a wine list that cherry-picks Old and New World labels with an affinity for the ocean. Playful desserts, such as a coconut and pineapple bar with lime meringue, and attentive service keep the sailing at The Atlantic smooth.