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The Buffalo Club

It’s not Ashly Hicks’s cooking ability that’s in question, but whether his meticulously plated dishes always benefit from being so thoroughly worked. A thin green disc of watercress jelly looks striking, yet adds little to an otherwise harmonious combination of house-cured duck breast and baby heirloom radishes. But when things click, magic happens. “Pork, kimchi, soy, cucumber” translates to a fat finger of crisp-skinned pork belly, pickled cucumber and tiny drops of jellied soy, tofu and kimchi liquid. A fitting finale, the impossible-sounding assemblage of dense chocolate mousse, cloud-like tufts of vanilla ricotta and toasted marshmallow teardrops proves that, sometimes, more is more. Switched-on floor staff and thoughtful wine options give this loud, nightclubby room punch; once the kitchen learns to pull back a little, this raging Buffalo might finally land that knockout blow.