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The Lane Vineyard

Take green hillsides, undulating vineyards, a lofty setting and a glass-walled restaurant of svelte design and you have one of Adelaide Hills’ most pleasant lunching spots. The Lane has gradually evolved towards more sophisticated dining, and a smartened-up locally focused wine list ups the ante with a couple of French tipples. The food show is ably steered by a floor crew that shows genuine enthusiasm for the fare, though service can be patchy when pressed. Rounds of beef carpaccio are playfully teamed with soused baby vegetables and crumbed marrow. Game bird terrine with roast spatchcock breasts, apple compote, celeriac and Madeira is a standout dish that marries savoury and sweet, meatiness and freshness with aplomb. More comely tribute than traditional in its deconstructed form, the spiced crème brûlée with roast pineapple and biscotti makes a sticky-sweet finish.