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The Long Apron

Creativity flows from chef Cameron Matthews into the hushed Long Apron dining room where couples converse in whispers on banquette seats. With Matthews’s days shared between kitchen and organic garden, his seasonal haul is woven into intelligent, often intriguing dishes. For full effect, dégustation dining comes in five- or 10-course offerings. A light, summery entrée of prawn, mango, puffed rice, coriander and seaweed arrives artfully presented while salmon, with rye crumbs for texture, is in fine confit form, even if its seasoning could use attention. Dessert of just-infused Earl Grey teacake features rose petals from the kitchen garden – crystallised and as a pâte de fruit – along with musk gel and a ball of lemon curd. It’s sublime stuff. As a fitting match for a Gallic-leaning menu, France is well represented on an otherwise antipodean wine list.