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The Italian

They don’t call it the Paris end of Collins Street for nothing. Smooth good looks, sharp suits and graceful elegance gather here – and they do so at The Italian. Towering ceilings, glass walls, sleek red leather booths and rich lighting create a dramatic first impression. Match this with a wine list heavy in Italian offerings and swift service that can err on the stiff side of professional, and there’s no disputing this place means business. The menu is true to its Italian heritage. Earthy delicate chestnut and mushroom panzerotti pasta is lifted by thyme-infused butter sauce and shavings of smooth Reggiano. Boned quail melts alongside smooth polenta, silverbeet and a light sticky jus. A fat beef fillet is covered in a spicy black pepper sauce, an instant favourite. Desserts are where the kitchen has fun; the apple tart, all buttery pastry, warm apple chunks and cinnamon ice-cream, is a show stopper.