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The Source

‘Striking’ is the word you’ll need as you approach The Source. It does for the enormous entrance, the six-metre John Olsen painting that runs the length of the foyer ceiling, and for the views from the first-floor dining room. There’s not quite so much drama in the food, though, which comes as something of a blessing. Chef Justin Harris is adept at comfortable pairings of flavour and texture. It’s intelligent to crumb soft braised tongue, fry it until crisp, then serve it with beetroot, onion cream and salsa verde. It’s quite masterly to hide pickled turnip in a dish of sweet braised beef cheeks and carrot cream. Occasionally, though, there’s a jarring note: poached dried fruits at the height of autumn, when all around there’s seasonal abundance. As you’d expect, Moorilla wines (and beer) make up the bulk of the drinks menu. The Source is well worth the short trip from Hobart’s CBD.