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The Tea Rooms at Yarck

In that most bucolic of Aussie settings, a white weatherboard house, we find this wonderful Italian outpost. Incongruous? Not at all. This is the country retreat of Sardinian-born Pietro Porcu of South Yarra’s Da Noi. Here the emphasis is on leisurely feasting. Porcu’s simple menu highlights excellent produce, as local as possible, usually with Sardinian overtones such as pane carasau, a crisp flatbread, drizzled with olive oil. Or blue swimmer crab pieces mixed through spaghettini topped with grated bottarga with enough citrusy flavour and chilli for extra zing. There’s always a roast and while suckling pig is a signature dish, it’s also a seasonal one. When on, it might be served rolled with a stuffing of herbs and nuts. Serves are generous, which includes desserts such as a classic tiramisù. The small wine list takes an Italian tack perfectly suited to the menu.