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The Wine Underground

The Wine Underground has resurfaced in grand style. A building redevelopment demanded a rethink of the operation, and the new enterprise features a spacious bistro/bar with outdoor dining, and an underground formal dining room – spacious, predominantly white, zebra-print carpet, starched tablecloths. The bistro has cool bar food – wagyu rump steak and Roquefort sandwich, salt and pepper quail with pickled radish and steamed dumplings – but downstairs chef John Gabel drives the menu harder, embracing extravagant touches with confidence. Expect foie gras brûlée with green apple salad, buttered Kangaroo Island lobster with ponzu dressing, and lamb rack with pearl barley and labne balls. For the decadent, there’s Petrossian oscietra caviar and Krug by the glass. Desserts pack serious flavour – try the passionfruit tasting plate, or Bollinger sorbet.