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Three, One, Two

As we go to print, Andrew McConnell is moving his principal operation to a new site on Fitzroy’s Gertrude Street. For now, let’s savour the quirks of this Carlton terrace, with its camouflage netting in the window and cowhide on the floor. McConnell’s Eastern influences, and his knack for evoking nostalgia without hackneyed tropes, and quirkiness without the twee meld as harmonically as sorrel and ginger in white onion soup studded with scallops and abalone. Careful knifework and an eye for balance see roast rabbit zing on cracked wheat and pistachio with slivers of date, while slices of rare roast pheasant, with a finger-lickin’ Brussels sprout, bacon and chestnut underlay, are taken over the top with the drumstick, Frenched, confited and then crumbed to resemble a luxe chicken nugget. Informed affability, seen in wine, desserts and on the floor, makes for a consistently pleasurable package.