The Christmas issue

Our December issue is out now, featuring Paul Carmichael's recipes for a Caribbean Christmas, silly season cocktails and more.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before 28th December, 2016 for your chance to win a share of $50,000!

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Chilled recipes for summer

When the mercury is rising, step away from the oven. These recipes are either raw, chilled or frozen and will cool you down in a snap.

Shark Bay Wild Scampi Caviar

Bright blue scampi roe is popping up on menus across Australia. Here's why it's so special.

Decadent chocolate dessert recipes for Christmas

13 of our most decadent chocolate recipes to indulge guests with this Christmas.

What the GT team is cooking on Christmas Day

We don't do things by halves in the Gourmet office. These are the recipes we'll be cooking on the big day.

Sydney's best dishes 2016

For our 50th anniversary issue in 2016, we scoured Australia asking two questions: What dishes are making waves right now? What flavours will take us into the next half-century? Sydney provided 16 answers.

Paul Carmichael's great cake

"Great cake, also known in Barbados as black cake or rum cake, is a variation of British Christmas cake that's smashed with rum and falernum syrup," says Momofuku Seiobo chef Paul Carmichael. "This festive cake varies from household to household but they all have two things in common: tons of dried fruit and rum. It's a cake that should be started at least a month out so the fruit can marinate in the booze. Start this recipe up to five weeks ahead to macerate the fruit and baste the cake."

Mango recipes

Nothing says summer like mangoes. Go beyond the criss-cross cuts - bake a mango-filled meringue loaf with lime mascarpone, start off the day with a sweet coconut quinoa pudding with sticky mango, or toss it through a spicy warm weather Thai salad.

Summer feta recipes

Whether in a fresh salad or seasonal seafood dish, feta's creamy tang can be used to add interest to a variety of summer dishes.

What to eat, drink and do in Chang Mai

Rachamankha hotel

Rachamankha hotel

With distinctive architecture, seriously good coffee and spicy northern Thai food, Chiang Mai rivals Bangkok for attention.

Located in the mountainous regions of Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai has beautiful temples, a distinct cuisine, and a vibrant markets. Here's our guide to the best of Chang Mai.

GETTING THERE

Thai Airways and Qantas (codesharing with Bangkok Airways) fly from Sydney to Chiang Mai via Bangkok.

STAY

Rachamankha
In the sleepy south-west of the old city, this 25-room boutique hotel is owned and operated by renowned Thai architect Ong-ard Satrabhandhu and his stepson, Rooj Changtrakul, an interior designer and antique collector. It features serene palmshaded courtyards, spacious rooms full of antiques, breezy public lounges, a stunning 20-metre swimming pool and an elegant restaurant serving Burmese and northern Thai dishes.
6 Rachamankha Rd, Soi 9, rachamankha.com

Tamarind Village
Also in the old city, this atmospheric 45-room hotel is built around a huge 200-year-old tamarind tree. Clay roof tiles, lime plaster walls and exposed beams evoke traditional architecture of the Lanna kingdom, which ruled northern Thailand some 700 years ago. Vibrant cushions and throws made from hill-tribe textiles enliven whitewashed rooms. Complimentary activities include a walking tour that begins with offerings to monks and a visit to the 14th-century Wat Chedi Luang.
50/1 Rachdamnoen Rd, tamarindvillage.com

DO

Take in the city's sights while learning about traditional Lanna cuisine, which has much in common with the food of neighbouring Myanmar, Laos and southern China, with the local culinary authorities at Chiang Mai Food Tours (chiangmaifoodtours.com). Guests sample 10 Lanna specialties, including arguably the city's best khao soi, a coconut-curry noodle soup, and desserts such as kanom sai, coconut and palm sugar steamed in a banana leaf.

DRINK

Chiang Mai has a sophisticated café scene, with many of its best coffee shops owned and operated by Australian schooled Thai baristas.

Double-shot ristretti are standard at Ristr8to (15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd), where former Sydney-based barista Arnon "Tong" Thitiprasert introduced flat whites to Chiang Mai. Lee Ayu Chuepa runs his two Akha Ama cafés (175/1 Rachadamnoen Rd and 9/1 Hassadhisawee Rd) as social enterprises that focus on community impact rather than profit, and the citrusy arabica beans are sustainably grown by his Akha hill-tribe. At Ponganes, Sydneytrained Rawi "Pong" Kasemsuk roasts his own beans; try his Ocean Blend sourced from Costa Rica, Colombia and Chiang Mai (133/5 Ratchapakinai Rd). If you can't squeeze into tiny Graph Café (Rajvithi, Soi 1), buy a chilled bottle of Karueporn "Tee" Satrabhaya's Graph No 8 cold brew made from Thai single-origin beans, and head to nearby Graph Table (8/3 Moonmuang Rd, Soi 6) where Tee's wife, Ajaree, makes her own pasta.

SHOP

The touristy "Walking Street" markets on weekend evenings remain popular for hill-tribe textiles, handicrafts and the ubiquitous elephant pants (Wualai Rd, Saturday; Rachadamnoen Rd, Sunday). Locals gravitate towards the more eclectic shops along "Nimman", as locals call Nimmanhaemin Road, west of the old city. Think Park is a cluster of arty little shops, cafés and bars run by young Thai retailers and designers. It's located opposite Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre, which features designer stores, a gourmet supermarket and stylish rooftop bars. The narrow sois, or side streets, off Nimman house even more boutiques, cafés, wine bars and pubs.

EAT

Tong Tem Toh
In hip Nimmanhaemin, this cool, casual eatery with polished concrete floors, big wooden tables and a beer garden draws mostly Thais for its inexpensive Lanna food. Order the "hors d'oeuvre" plate with fiery nam prik num (green chilli dip), milder nam prik ong (a tomato pork relish) and herby sai oua pork sausages.
11 Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 13.

Huen Phen
Near Wat Chedi Luang, the city's best-known Lanna restaurant serves delicious northern Thai specialties. Try the moreish naam (fermented pork sausage), sweet tam kanun (young jackfruit salad), and earthy larb khua moo (spicy minced pork and offal salad). By day, customers dine in a rustic annexe, after dark in the cosy dining room cluttered with curios.
112 Ratchamanka Rd, baanhuenphen.com

Dash Teak House
Run by a mother-son team, Dash is set in a renovated teak house on a quiet lane near Tha Pae Gate. Dash Tevis runs the floor, while his mother Noi oversees the kitchen. Lanna favourites include a rich gaeng hinlay curry of fall-off-the-bone pork.
Moon Muang Rd, Soi 7, dashteakhouse.com

DON'T MISS

Launched early last year, Ploen Rudee Night Market has more local flavour than the nearby touristy Night Bazaar. Buy crafts and handmade clothes, then take a seat on a hay bale at a packing-crate table for snacks ranging from tonkatsu to burgers. It's open Monday to Saturday from 4pm.
Chang Klang Rd

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

The north's finest Lanna food can be found on Chiang Mai's south-east outskirts at rustic Huen Jai Yong, a favourite of chef David Thompson. On a menu written in Thai, highlights include larb pla nin kua (a spicy minced fish salad) and gaeng kanun (pork rib and jackfruit curry).
64 Moo 4, Buak Khang, San Kamphaeng Rd

GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
The GT x STILY
Christmas Boutique is now open

The smallgoods, homewares, art and more from the pages of GT are now all under one roof, ready to take their place under the tree.

Read More
Gourmet TV

Check out our YouTube channel for our latest cover recipes, chef cooking demos, interviews and more.

Watch Now

You might also like...

A journey by train through the Canadian Rockies

With a cashmere rug and mug of hot chocolate, Eliza O'Hare s...

P&O's new look

With a bowerbird’s eye on boutique hotels and inner-city bar...

Tea and serendipity in Sri Lanka

From the high tea in the highlands to hot yoga on the coast,...

San Francisco's new MOMA

Gallery space at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art has ...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×