The summer issue

Our summer-packed January issue is out now - featuring our guide to summer rieslings, strawberries and seafood recipes, as well as a look at the best of Bali.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller for just $6 an issue - offer ends 29th January, 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Recipes with peaches

Whether caramelised in a tarte Tartin, paired with slow-roasted pork on top of pizza or tossed through salads, this sweet stone fruit is an excellent addition to summer cooking.

Black Star Pastry to open in Carlton, Melbourne

Instagram’s most famous cake, plus a few other sweet hits, is heading south.

Knives and Ink chef tattoos

What is it about chefs and tattoos? A new book asks the inked to answer for themselves.

AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

Ben Shewry's favourtie souvlaki restaurant in Melbourne Kalimera Souvlaki Art

Attica’s chef isn’t happiest when eating soils or smears on his days off, it’s souvlaki. We follow him to his favourite spot.

Berry recipes

Whether it's raspberries paired with chocolate in a layer cake, or blueberries with lemon in a tart; berries are a welcome addition to any dessert. Here are delicious recipes with berries.

Seabourn Encore luxury cruise ship

Australia is about to get its first glimpse of Seabourn Encore, a glamorous new addition to the Seabourn fleet.

Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Paris's entrailles

Fergus Henderson’s insider’s guide to Paris reveals the city’s blood and guts, and its heart and soul.

Two of the great loves of my life were cemented on the same day: my wedding day. Margot and I had the ceremony and then left our drunken friends to fly to Paris, where we headed to Brasserie Balzar in Rue des Écoles for supper. Margot had steak tartare, which was a fortunate choice as it acted as a comfortable pillow when she fell asleep face-down. So I was left on my own eating my pied de porc grillé, a fine grilled pig's trotter.

The honeymoon was short, because we both cooked at the French House Dining Room and it had to shut down for our nuptials, but we managed to eat very well. Lunch was at the same place every day: Le Rubis in Rue du Marché St-Honoré, and we enjoyed every innard and extremity on the menu. Wonderful tête de veau with a sauce gribiche to cut through the lip-sticking nature of the calf's head. Tripes à la mode de Caen, rich and steadying with Calvados but also incredibly uplifting. The boudin noir - simply wonderful blood sausage with potatoes. They also do a very good dish of lentils, rich with stock, to which they add a huge knob of butter just to make sure.

My allegiance may have drifted slightly. Not from Margot, I hasten to mention, but from Le Rubis to Chez Georges on Rue du Mail. Their andouillette - a sausage made with the business end of the pig's digestive tract - had more "A"s than I'd ever seen before. The sausage, already unique with its unmistakable special flavour and aroma, has an alliteration-loving fan-club: the Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique (or AAAAA, as it appears on many menus), the marque of choice for connoisseurs of pork-lower-intestine snags.

I had a moment or two at Chez Georges, one of which involved my favourite pudding: vanilla ice-cream with chocolate sauce. As I ate, a great blob of chocolate sauce made a break for freedom and landed on my tummy, not a small target at the best of times. A waitress of a certain age sporting a very fine blue rinse mopped my shirt with a warm flannel. Oh ho! A heady moment: a steadying Vieille Prune was required.

I think the boned-out veal trotter at Le Grand Véfour was the most esoteric dish in my odyssey of guts and extremities. It was a thing of wonderment, flattened and truffled, crisp on top and very sticky underneath, which is where the truffles lurked if I remember correctly. This in the most beautiful restaurant: it doesn't get much better. Except that it does. Stepping out of Le Grand Véfour after a grand time at the table, you find yourself in le Jardin du Palais Royal, taking the perfect post-lunch stroll.

There is an understanding of lunch in Paris, and its restaurants are primed for those who lunch to win. Where did we Anglais go wrong? Lunch is lunch, not just a simple intake of would-be nutrition. Or worse.

Rungis is there still, one of the great markets for all its modern ills, doing what it ever did, connecting with la profonde. A collection of aircraft hangar-sized buildings with corners selling butter, game birds, radishes, shellfish and, of course, offal. In the great offal hall, the sounds of meat being pushed across the metal tables is a symphony for the gut.

I'm not all blood and guts, I should add. One of the best things I've ever eaten in Paris was a sea urchin soufflé at Le Pré Catelan on Bois de Boulogne. The spiky shells held little clouds of musk. Come to think of it, though, they're technically innards as well. Perhaps I am all blood and guts, after all. Certainly I can't leave you without mentioning Pharamond near Les Halles, where you are brought your pot of tripe on a little brazier so it can be cooked and thickened to your desire.

And that's the wonder that is Paris. A city where gnawing on the ends of animals and scooping out their insides remains among the most refined and social of pursuits. A place where you can wear the latest Chanel jacket, but still have your calf's head and eat it too. Vive la France!


GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Best of Italy

Rome, Florence, Naples, the Amalfi... the list of our favour...

Best New Hotels 2009 slideshow

We’ve got the keys to the most fabulous new hotels in the wo...

Burgundy, France: Top soil

“Water can rust iron. Imagine what it does to your insides. ...

Bali's new high

It’s no secret that recent times have been tough for Austral...

New South Wales South Coast

Unsung hero Flashier holiday spots may steal the limelight, ...

Gourmet Barcelona

From the city's best sandwich bar to its favourite charcuter...

Greece's Mani peninsula

Greece’s rugged and bloody Mani peninsula was once a no-go z...

Venice in pictures

Read our story on what to do if you only have 24 hours in Ve...

Great Brittany gallery

Take a walk on the wild side. Follow Brittany’s windswept co...

South African safari lodges gallery

Travelling from the Great Karoo to the Kruger, Emma Ventura ...

Iceland photo gallery

Erase the images of that volcano with the unpronounceable na...

Happy holidays

They’re following the sun and chasing the snow, staying clos...

Kyneton and Castlemaine

Kyneton and Castlemaine were born out of the gold-rush era, ...

Insider's guide to Manly

Breath of fresh air The classic Sydney beachside neighbourho...

The best of New Zealand

Choosing from the bounty of New Zealand's holiday destinati...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×