The Christmas issue

Our December issue is out now, featuring Paul Carmichael's recipes for a Caribbean Christmas, silly season cocktails and more.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller before 28th December, 2016 for your chance to win a share of $50,000!

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Chilled recipes for summer

When the mercury is rising, step away from the oven. These recipes are either raw, chilled or frozen and will cool you down in a snap.

Decadent chocolate dessert recipes for Christmas

13 of our most decadent chocolate recipes to indulge guests with this Christmas.

Top 35 recipes of 2016

2016 was all about slow-roasting, fresh pasta and comfort food. These are the recipes you clicked on most this year, counting back to number one.

What the GT team is cooking on Christmas Day

We don't do things by halves in the Gourmet office. These are the recipes we'll be cooking on the big day.

Sydney's best dishes 2016

For our 50th anniversary issue in 2016, we scoured Australia asking two questions: What dishes are making waves right now? What flavours will take us into the next half-century? Sydney provided 16 answers.

Best travel destinations in 2017

We're thinking big for travelling in 2017 - and so should you. Will we see you sunrise at Java's 9th-century Borobudur Buddhist temple, across the table at Reykjavik's newest restaurants or swimming side-by-side with humpback whales off Western Australia's coast?

Summer feta recipes

Whether in a fresh salad or seasonal seafood dish, feta's creamy tang can be used to add interest to a variety of summer dishes.

Christmas vegetarian recipes

The versatility of vegetarian dishes means they can be served alongside meat and seafood, or enjoyed simply as they are. With Christmas just around the corner, we’ve put together some of our favourite vegetarian recipes to appease both herbivores and carnivores alike.

After the fall

The Tannery, Christchurch

The Tannery, Christchurch

Christchurch was crushed by the 2011 earthquake and now the recovery effort is in full swing, writes Max Anderson.

When a city's walls have fallen how do you turn a corner? It takes time.

It has been nearly three years since a 6.3 magnitude earthquake claimed 185 lives and destroyed 80 per cent of the inner city of Christchurch in February 2011. By the beginning of this year the sound of demolition had all but ceased and the barricaded "red zone" was pulled down mid-year - a corner, of sorts.

While huge challenges remain for residents, rebuilding has begun in earnest and travellers are being encouraged to visit a very different Christchurch from the genteel pre-quake city.

Five hotels have opened in the past seven months: Novotel, Heritage, Quest Serviced Apartments, Hotel 115 and the Rydges Latimer. "In the peak summer months we were running out of hotels and backpacker accommodation," says Tim Hunter, chief executive of Christchurch and Canterbury Tourism. "People would come into town, find they couldn't get a room and head back out. Now capacity is 68 per cent of where we were before the quake - and we have a much broader range of accommodation types."

International tourism to the city was decimated, but Hunter says tourism, too, is recovering. "Christchurch was getting 1.5 million international guest-nights in the city before 2011; that's now at 840,000, up from its lowest point of 740,000."

Some attractions were unaffected by the quake, including the city's Botanic Gardens, the International Antarctic Centre and punting on the River Avon. In April, New Regent Street - the 1932 boutique shopping street built in Spanish Mission style - was refurbished, reinvigorated with new businesses and reopened. In October, the city's trams began rattling through the streets again and the first of about 70 retail and hospitality outlets planned at The Tannery in Woolston - a stunning piece of industrial architecture - have opened.

As for the city's new attractions, they're unique responses to the massive challenge of rebuilding, mostly born of necessity, and a determination to use vacant space with some wry Kiwi humour.

Re:Start is a brightly coloured shopping mall fashioned from shipping containers. The 700-seat Cardboard Cathedral opened in August as a stand-in for Christchurch's ruined centrepiece - a statement of astonishing bravura. The Pallet Pavilion is an outdoor arts and performance amphitheatre made of, yes, wooden pallets. There are arts projects ("Ghost Poems" on city walls will disappear as new buildings go up), sports projects (Gap Golf, offering nine free golf "holes" where buildings once stood) and a raft of pop-up cafés and bars, such as Volstead Trading Company ("Think an old converted garage, furniture that is reminiscent of stuff your granny might have, a piano turned into a barbecue and a cute little caravan from which food offerings appear," says the Pop Up City Christchurch website).

Collectively these colourful and quirky ventures are referred to as Christchurch's "transitionals": expedient but likely to be temporary. Something else is emerging from the vacant lots: a new and permanent inner-city Christchurch.

Sam Crofskey owns the popular C1 Espresso café, which he promoted before the earthquake as "the greatest café in New Zealand". After evacuating on 22 February, he wasn't allowed to return to the ruin of his business for three months, and only then to rescue some belongings. He reopened his café in November last year across the road in the Art Deco former post office building, one of the few heritage structures left standing. "It's now the 'greatest café in the world'," Crofskey says. "It's no joke. It's bigger and better. It has to be. Something good had to come out of this f-ing earthquake!"

Crofskey says he's seizing opportunity from the disaster. Everything in his enlarged premises has significance: bits of the old café have been fashioned into the new space as a tribute to the much-loved spot; the new property is energy-efficient (even the heat from the roasters is reused); and the roof of C1 has been turned into a garden, with vineyard, citrus orchard and beehives.

Christchurch, too, he says, is seizing its opportunity. "Before the quake, it faced south, but now the whole city is being turned around to face the river. And we're acknowledging our past in a better way - the Ngai Tahu [local Maori] are telling their story in the city, whereas before we were a very English city. We're actually reflecting on who we are."

Hunter is optimistic about the upcoming summer, especially if Asian and European tourist numbers keep increasing. But he'd love to see the return of the city's biggest international market. "I think Australians were most impacted by the horrific images back in 2011," he says. "They watched it live, they saw it as it happened." The implication is Australians continue to perceive a city in crisis - not in recovery.

"We have 790 cafés restaurants and bars," says Hunter. "Of those, 220 have opened in the last 18 months. That's the rate of buildings going up. There's still a long way to go, but visitors don't need to worry that there'll be nothing here. Hospitality is coming back."

So, it seems, is Christchurch.


Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Introducing Crown Towers Perth
06.12.2016
Expert air travel tips with Michael Issenberg
02.12.2016
Flashcamp pops up in Byron Bay for the summer
30.11.2016
Fine art and food meet in New York's galleries
30.11.2016
The team behind London’s Clove Club opens Luca
29.11.2016
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is officially a palace
16.11.2016
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
The GT x STILY
Christmas Boutique is now open

The smallgoods, homewares, art and more from the pages of GT are now all under one roof, ready to take their place under the tree.

Read More
Gourmet TV

Check out our YouTube channel for our latest cover recipes, chef cooking demos, interviews and more.

Watch Now

You might also like...

Wine on tap in Copenhagen

Wine bars don’t often win art prizes for “beautifying the ci...

Grand Budapest wine revival

The latest crop of Hungarian winemakers has sparked a new fo...

Etihad's private cabin

Cabins with proper beds and butlers feature in Etihad’s plan...

Readers’ choice awards winners

And the winners are…

Julia Morris on Bellapais, Cyprus

On a stay in Bellapais, actress Julia Morris basked in the h...

Cathay Pacific's new airport lounges

Lounge design needs to satisfy loners and more sociable crea...

Qantas reveals new A330 business suites

Qantas has unveiled new business-class seating and the big w...

Baest, Copenhagen

Copenhagen’s Bæst offers diners a truly hands-on experience.

Qantas business class amenity kits get an upgrade

Qantas reveals its brand-new business class amenity kits...

Qantas upgrades its economy-class dining

The airline promises bigger portions and greater choice in t...

Specialist travel agents

When it comes to booking travel, aren’t we flying solo now? ...

Air NZ's new business class

There's no question Air New Zealand is winning the branding ...

Hija de Sanchez, Copenhagen

Ex-Noma pastry chef Rosio Sanchez makes a (taco) stand in th...

Marc Blazer interview

Meet Marc Blazer, talent collector, dream enabler and the ma...

GT Journeys by Abercrombie & Kent

GT Journeys by Abercrombie & Kent kicks off next year with i...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×