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Universal

Christine Manfield’s electric personality glows from Universal’s vivid lightbox walls, sleek indoor/outdoor design and, at its highest wattage, the menu. It’s a document of her passions and travels, captured in highly worked small plates that unite global flavours with rare finesse. Veal sweetbreads in Indian spice on saffron chickpeas and pumpkin, or the extraordinary steamed blue-eye, draped with jamón for richness, and harissa-warmed squid and white beans for depth, showcase the kitchen’s fine grasp of spice and texture. Complex, architectural desserts are a highlight: Totally Nuts, caramel parfait with salted hazelnut caramel and hazelnut-chocolate mousse, is as luxe as a Snickers gets. Holding it all together is a floor team of unusual competence. Sharing the roles of sommelier and maître d’, Liz Carey and Paul Guiney lead service that genuinely distinguishes every meal. Bravo.