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Urbane

This elegant, slightly spacy timber and white dining room, with its aptly urbane wait-staff, sets the mood for the progressive, complex but typically attractive food to come. Seared kingfish, grape juice, pickled onion, apple gel, and strawberry (yes, strawberry) aïoli is given a playful twist with potato crisps. Poached snapper is flaked across liquid black pudding and potato, crab and leek fondue is invigorated with chef Kym Machin’s house curry blend. Desserts remain a highlight. Licorice ice-cream and foam played off against a sarsaparilla granita pits two very big, bold and divisive flavours on the one plate, but they’re balanced nicely with slivers of pear and cubes of olive oil sponge cake. It’s a win, as is having sommelier Ramon Arnavas on hand to guide you ably through an odyssey of fine wines. A visit to Urbane remains one of Brisbane’s culinary highlights.